New York Songlines: 33rd Street

South:

John D. Caemmerer Westside Yard

Train yards for the LIRR and MTA. Named for a New York state senator who headed the transportation committee.

Plans for a new Jets football stadium envision putting it here, with the train yard remaining underneath.

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North:

Truck Marshaling Yard

South:

John D. Caemmerer Westside Yard

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North:

U.S. Post Office Garage

555: Octagon, gay nightclub. Building was Overseas Shipping, which boasted the phone number JOE-1234.

South:

Mid-Town Mart Building

Block (450 W. 33rd): This building-- built in 1970 as the Westyard Distribution Center-- is home to the New York Daily News, U.S. News & World Report and public TV station WNET. The international headquarters of the Associated Press moved here in 2004, from its longtime home at Rockefeller Center. The building used to be topped by a skating rink known as Skyrink--now moved to Chelsea Piers.

424: A "boutique office building."

Tracks to Penn Station.

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North:

Corner (406 10th Ave): The Kaufman Building

Lincoln Tunnel Access

Lanes to and from the busiest vehicular tunnel in the world, handling 120,000 vehicles a day. Opened in 1937, it was the first major tunnel project to be completed without a single worker fatality.

St Michael's Academy

425: Catholic girl's high school. Founded in 1874 as St Michael's Grammar Schools; originally located a block to the south, where the rail yards are now, and relocated here by the Pennsylvania Railroad in 1906. The academy, a high school, opened in 1924; the elementary school closed in 1971.

419: St Michael's Presentation Convent

St Michael's Catholic Church, a parish founded 1857, serving what was then an Irish immigrant neighborhood. Michael is not a human saint but an archangel; in some traditions he is the conveyor of the souls of the dead, like Charon, which is why he appears in the spiritual "Michael, Row Your Boat Ashore."

Corner (411 9th Ave): Cheyenne Diner; classic chrome style

South:

General Post Office

This 1913 building, New York's main post office, was designed by Charles McKim of McKim, Mead and White to complement the classical design of the old Pennsylvania Station, now destroyed. Noted for its collonade of 20 53-foot-high Corinthian columns which support the famous inscription, “Neither snow nor rain nor heat nor gloom of night stays these couriers from the swift completion of their appointed rounds.” (This is not the Post Office's official motto, but its placement here-- based on Herodotus' description of Persian couriers--has made it an unofficial standard.) The building--officially renamed the James A. Farley Building, after FDR's postmaster, a New York native-- also bears the names of noted figures in the history of mail.

The building is scheduled to be transformed into a new rail terminal to replace the warren-like Penn Station under Madison Square Garden. The retrofitted post office building is to be renamed Moynihan Station, commemorating Sen. Daniel Patrick Moynihan, who led the push for the change.

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North:

B & H Photo Video Pro-Audio

Corner (420 9th Ave): Block-spanning superstore of "the professionals source"; founded 1973.

355: B & H annex

This entire block was once occupied by the New York Institution for the Blind, where in 1853 future president Grover Cleveland was a 17-year-old teacher.

325: Glad Tidings Tabernacle, an Assemblies of God church

315: The Pennmark; 35-story glass-walled apartment building, finished 2002.

313: The site of a hotel called Maison Gerard, where legendary bohemian Joe Gould lived from 1944-48--one of the few times in his adult life that he had a regular home. He was being subsidized at the time by an anonymous benefactor.

Corner (461 8th Ave): Originally the Printing Crafts Building, now known as 5 Penn Plaza, this building houses the New York bureaus of CNN and CNNfn. On this corner is a branch of the theater district's Stage Door Restaurant.

South:

Madison Square Garden

Eight blocks from Madison Square, where the original version was located, this 20,000-seat arena, the home of the New York Knicks, Rangers and Liberty, is the fourth building and the third location to bear the name. Joe Frazier defeated Mohammed Ali here March 8, 1971; Nadia Comaneci scored a perfect 10 here March 28, 1978.

Jimi Hendrix, Elvis Presley, Frank Sinatra, Bruce Springsteen, Madonna and Pope John Paul II have all performed here; the Grateful Dead played here 52 times, a record broken by Elton John in 2001. John Lennon's last performance was here, as a surprise guest at an Elton John concert, in 1974. The Democratic conventions of 1976, 1980 and 1992 were held here.

Many people think of Madison Square Garden, however, as one of New York City's greatest architectural crimes-- because it was built by tearing down the old Pennsylvania Station, a glorious 1910 structure modeled on the Roman Baths of Caracalla, considered to be architect Charles McKim's greatest masterpiece. (Ironically, McKim partner Stanford White's greatest work was the second Madison Square Garden, demolished in 1925.) Protests by architects and preservationists did not prevent the station's 1963 destruction--though the loss did help spark landmark laws to protect other treasures. Statues of eagles from the station can be seen on the east side of the Garden.

In the basement of the Garden is the new Penn Station, one of Manhattan's two major rail terminals--along with a 48-lane bowling alley. Architect Louis I. Kahn died of a heart attack at the station in 1974--his unidentified body remaining in the morgue for several days.

In the Garden is a branch of the fancy L.A. steakhouse Nick & Stef's, named for celebrity chef Joachim Splichal's twin sons.

The Garden's office tower is the location of Disney/ABC radio flagship WABC--this is the home station of Rush Limbaugh and Sean Hannity, among other right-wing broadcasters. WPLJ music radio is based here too.

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All of the several buildings on this block have the same "address"--1 Penn Plaza. Who thought up this system, anyway?

The first building contains a restaurant called Beema Grill.

Then there's a small plaza called Penn Plaza Park--centered on a pyramid apparently made of brownstone.

Next is the main 1 Penn Plaza Building, which includes the Tupelo Grill (surf & turf) and also the "Big KMart"--not the little kind you're used to.

Separated from the discount behemoth by a pedestrian walkway is Bruce's Burger Drive-In; the name is ironic (because you can only walk to it), but there are license plates and 1950s kitsch for decor, and the Daily News declared it to be one of the five cleanest public restaurants in Manhattan. Plus the burgers are pretty good. Also on this walkway are Rosa's Pizza and Penn Plaza Florist.

At the corner is a branch of the Greenpoint Bank.

South:

Hotel Pennsylvania

Corner (401 7th Ave): This 1919 hotel, designed by McKim, Mead & White for the Pennsylvania Railroad, was a favorite for touring musicians of the big band era--in part because it, like the bands, was integrated, something few hotels were in those days--leading to the immortalization of its phone number in the Glenn Miller song "Pennsylvania 6-5000." Miller, along with jazz greats like Duke Ellington, Count Basie and the Dorsey Brothers, used to play at the Cafe Rouge Ballroom.

Edwin Land demonstrated his Polaroid camera here on February 21, 1947; Frank Olson, a U.S. Army biowarfare expert, jumped to his death from the 10th floor after being unwittingly dosed with LSD as part of the CIA's MKULTRA program.

The hotel has also operated under the names New York Penta and Statler. It houses the Penn Plaza Pavilion.

136: Joe O's is in the Hotel Pennsylvania.

112: International Children's Apparel Center; showrooms for the trade.

Manhattan Mall

100 (corner): Used to be Gimbel's department store; Macy's chief rival ("Does Macy's tell Gimbel's?") which claimed to have invented the bargain basement. Building designed by Daniel Burnham, of Flatiron fame, and built 1908-12; it was purposely utilitarian and undecorated. The first ballpoint pens were sold here in 1945-- selling 10,000 on the first day at $12.50 each. Converted to a glassed-in post-modern mall in 1987-89. Includes the Childrenswear Center.

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North:

159: Sports Plaza Office Building

157: 33 Gourmet Deli

155: 33rd Street Book & Video Center--otherwise known as Peep World.

141: Back entrance to Old Navy

139: Salt & Pepper--Spanish-American, Pakistani-Indian food; Hickey's, "delicious food & large drinks"--emphasis on the large drinks.

137: Blarney Rock Pub--since 1969.

133: Stout, bar opened in 2005 specializing in dark beers. Replaces BK's Nightclub and the Red Zone, noted for foot fetish events. Earlier McDooley's.

131: The Childrenswear Building--includes It's Another Hit--sportscards, comics and collectibles.

113: There used to be a French Renaissance-style firehouse at this defunct address.

Herald Center

Corner: Built for Saks & Company in 1901-02, as shopping moved to this neighborhood to take advantage of the new rail hubs. In 1966, after the area's appeal had faded, it became Korvette's. Rebuilt in 1982-85 as a mall with a glass elevator on the corner. Daffy's is the anchor store.

South:

Greeley Square

This triangular square is named for Horace Greeley, the founder of the New York Tribune. Though chiefly remembered as the guy who said "Go west, young man" (which was not actually his line), Greeley was actually one of the most influential journalists in American history. An advocate of social reform (Karl Marx was a European correspodent), Greeley supported abolition, worker's rights and (yes) Western settlement. As a reporter covering Congress in 1855, he was given a concussion by the cane of pro-slavery House Speaker Albert Rust. He helped found the Republican Party and was instrumental in making Abraham Lincoln the 1860 candidate. Surprisingly, he was the 1872 Democratic candidate for president; he was trounced by U.S. Grant and died a month later.

The statue of Greeley in a chair is an 1890 work by Alexander Doyle. The square was dedicated in 1894.

South:

Corner (1270-1280 Broadway): The Wilson Building, 1912, houses Cambridge Members clothing store.

50: Rick's Cabaret & Steakhouse, part of a super-pricey chain of "gentlemen's clubs," boasts of its food as well as its topless dancers. The space was formerly Paradise Club, an all-nude strip club.

48: Empire DVD

42: Empire Erotica, in case climbing New York's tallest building turned you on.

36: Jack Dempsey's Pub, a new old-time bar.

20-28: The Bawo & Dotter Building, built 1912. Includes Circa-NY, a stylish kosher restaurant; Empire T & G (T-shirts and gifts); and Rae's Deli, which looks old-school.

18: P.G. Kings Bar & Restaurant; this former speakeasy still has its escape tunnel and urinals salvaged from the old Waldorf-Astoria Hotel.

16: Precious Piles, four generations of carpet-selling.

14: Columbia Omnicorp, art and office supplies

4: Jim Hanley's Universe, New York City's best comic book store. Founded 1985.

Corner (330 5th Ave): Maui Tacos

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North:

Herald Towers

Corner (1300 Broadway): AKA McAlpin House; built as the Hotel McAlpin in 1913, at the time the largest hotel in New York; noted for its "silent floor" for the nocturnal. Converted to apartments in 1979; the murals of New York Harbor in the hotel's Marine Grill were removed and installed in the Fulton Street subway stop. At this corner is Game Stop, software retailer.

49: Korea Exchange Bank

45: People's Voice Cafe

43: Yang Pyung Seoul Restaurant, a mini-chain named for a Korean TV actor. Specializes in hae jang gook, touted as a hangover cure. Also Empire Exotics.

35: Once the address of Major's Cabin Grill, where in 1950 lawyer Frank X. McNamara was once short of cash to pay his bill and as a result founded Diner's Club.

33: Zoni Language Center; claims to be largest private English language school in the metropolitan area. In the gaslight era, this was the address of the House With Bronze Doors, a ultra-posh gambling den designed by Stanford White. The doors in question came from a Venetian palace.

19: Empire State Station Post Office; Louis Shoe Rebuilders, since 1921.

Big Apple Delicatessen & Restaurant, Daikichi Sushi--two possibilities if you want to eat in the big building.

Empire State Building

This block was the site of two mansions owned by the Astor family--the northern half was owned by Caroline (Mrs. William) Astor, while the southern half held the mansion of her nephew, William Waldorf Astor, who supposedly tore down his house and replaced it with the Waldorf Hotel in 1893 in order to spite his aunt. (Waldorf was John Jacob Astor's hometown in Germany.) Caroline Astor responded by replacing her own home with the Astoria Hotel, which were combined in 1897 to create the Waldorf-Astoria (though Caroline insisted on the right to re-separate the hotels at any time). In 1929 the hotel relocated uptown, and the Empire State Building was built on this site.

With ground broken on January 22, 1930, the building took only a year and 45 days to complete. The architect, William Lamb, said his design was inspired by a pencil. At 102 stories and 1,454 feet, it was the tallest building in the world from 1931 until 1974; there are still only three buildings in the world with more floors.

The mast on top was supposed to be a mooring tower for dirigibles, but the idea was abandoned after only one attempt due to chronic high winds--and dirigibles were on their way out anyway. On July 28, 1945, a B-25 bomber flying through fog crashed into the 79th floor, killing 11 people. Allen Ginsberg briefly worked in an advertising office here.

The building was famously climbed by the giant gorilla in King Kong, and was a meeting place for lovers in An Affair to Remember and Sleepless in Seattle.

See the official guide to the colors of the Tower Lights.

South:

333 (corner): Big George's Pizza; Sedutto Ice Cream

10: Sun Crown Oriental Furniture

12: Picturewise 1-Hour Photo is in the unfortunately named SS Building.

14: Cafe Eden; deli

18: Caridad Restaurant, Spanish & International Cuisine. Also Golden Krust Patties, Jamaican fast food.

22: Large arched window

24: Five Star Chinese Restaurant

Corner (168 Madison): Times Square Bagels

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North:

Corner (339 5th Ave): This building has beautiful large arched windows.

11: The Compleat Stategist; roleplaying, strategy and board games.

21: Palatial Palace; redundantly named Chinese

23: Eitan's Bootery

Corner (170 Madison): Milano Cafe

South:

Corner (167 Madison): Nissan Jeweler

28: Andrade Shoe Repair

28 1/2: The Brown Bag Cafe

30: Crystal Building houses the Oriental Art Center.

Corner (2 Park Ave): Lewis Mumford called this 1927 Art Deco skyscraper "the boldest and clearest note among all our recent achievements in skyscraper architecture." Built on the fashionable Park Avenue Hotel, which was originally constructed by retail tycoon A.T. Stewart as an ultra-strict Woman's Home. Inside the current building is Newsday's Manhattan bureau as well as the offices of the Sporting News. In the movie Death Wish, Charles Bronson worked here as an architect.

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North:

Corner (171 Madison): Lewittes Building, aka NAP Building; was Giovanni Luna Italian Menswear.

45: The Workmen's Circle/Arbeter Ring; promoting Jewish identity, Yiddish culture and social justice since 1900. Includes the Jewish Book Center.

The Vanderbilt

Corner (4 Park Ave): From its 1913 completion until it was converted to apartments in 1965, this was the Vanderbilt Hotel, one of the city's most fashionable in the early 20th Century. Singer Enrico Caruso lived here in 1920 and 1921, his last U.S. home.

Underneath this building is Vanderbilt Station, a restaurant that used to be the Della Robbia Bar, aka The Crypt. The vaulted Gaustavino ceiling is the big claim to fame. I think the rumor that this used to be Commodore Vanderbilt's secret private subway station is not true.

33RD STREET SUBWAY: 6 to 28th Street

South:

Corner (1 Park Ave): Door Store

New York Design Center

200 (block): A resource center for interior designers and architects; the New York chapter of the American Institute of Architects is based here. Built in 1926 as the New York Furniture Exchange.

North:

33RD STREET SUBWAY: 6 to 42nd Street/Grand Central

Norman Thomas High School for Commercial Education

Corner (3 Park Ave): Above this school, named for New York's six-time Socialist candidate for president, is a 42-story red-brick office tower, set at a sharp angle to the Manhattan grid. Occupants include prominent black radio stations WLIB and WBLS.

A plaque remains from the former occupant of this site, the 71st Regiment Armory, built in 1905. Another reminder is the eagle motif in the subway station below.

Corner (222 Lexington): Pellana Restaurant

South:

Yeshiva University Midtown Campus

Includes Stern College for Women, Sy Syms School of Business.

156: Kostas Tailors Cleaners, "for those who are discriminant."

160: Columbia Home Interiors was Abstract Lighting Ltd.

162: The second coming of the Second Avenue Deli, which closed in 2005 after five decades at the corner of 2nd Avenue and East 10th Street.

Corner (484 3rd Ave): Silver Star Deli

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153: Curry & Curry Indian Food & Sweet

157: Good Chinese Cuisine

159: Millenium Grocery was Shakti Grocery

163: Cosette; cozy French bistro

165: Kuni Sushi & Grill

167: Trio Restaurant & Bar; noted for its gourmet bar snacks.

Corner (488 3rd Ave): Back Porch; has many sidewalk tables.

South:

206: Sculptor Rene Paul Chambellan, who did architectural sculpture for the Chanin Building, Daily News Building, Sage House etc., had a studio here.

220: Mary Lindley Murray School (P.S. 116); named for the lady of Murray Hill, who entertained British officers at her estate while the Revolutionary army escaped to the north. Note girl playing recorder for kitten, boy studying frog over girls' and boys' entrances.

256: Midtown Animal Clinic

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North:

201 (corner): Brick Oven Pi33a. A clever name.

221: Townhouse East apartments

233: Smolka Design Center (kitchen and bath)

251: New York Medical Building; an ambitiously named little tenement.

Corner (603 2nd): Benjamin Restaurant/Bar

South:

Kips Bay Plaza

330 (corner): This 21-story exposed-concrete slab was built in 1960 to an I.M. Pei design. Kind of scary.

Corner (545 1st Ave): Greenberg Hall; residences for NYU's med school.

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North:

Corner (604 2nd Ave): Dove Open MRI; New York Sports Clubs above.

305: 33 Club for Seniors

307: Sacred Hearts of Jesus and Mary Church; The Sacred Hearts are a Catholic sect that formed under the persecution of the French Revolution. A rectory is connected to the west.

317: Sacred Hearts of Jesus and Mary School; built 1925.

325: Dalton Center; Sacred Hearts of Jesus and Mary Convent.

377: Eastbridge Landings, apartments; the nearest bridge is 26 blocks away, but admittedly "Easttunnel Landings" would not have sounded as good. The first seven floors are the Envoy Club, an extended-stay hotel.

Corner (577 1st Ave): NYU Child Study Center. (This is the same building as Eastbridge.)