New York Songlines: 5th Avenue

59th | 58th | 57th | 56th | 55th | 54th | 53rd | 52nd | 51st | 50th | 49th | 48th | 47th | 46th | 45th | 44th | 43rd | 42nd | 41st | 40th | 39th St | 38th St | 37th St | 36th St | 35th St | 34th St | 33th St | 32nd St | 31st St | 30th St
29th St | 28th St | 27th St | 26th St | 25th St | 24th St | 23th St | 22nd St | 21st St | 20th St
19th St | 18th St | 17th St | 16th St | 15th St | 14th St | 13th St | 12th St | 11th St | 10th St
9th St | 9th St | 8th St | Washington Square North


While most areas of Manhattan have gone in and out of fashion, 5th Avenue has always meant high-society--from its beginnings as a row of elite townhouses to its current status as a pricey shopping district. How many streets have had both a car and a candy bar named after them?

5th Avenue divides most Manhattan streets into East and West--street addresses generally start counting upwards from here in either direction.



West:

Central Park

An 853-acre expanse of green in the middle of Manhattan, its 25 million annual visitors make it the most-visited public park in the world. Responding to calls from civic leaders like William Cullen Bryant, the city acquired the land in 1853 and held a design contest in 1857, choosing the Greensward Plan of Frederick Law Olmstead and Calvert Vaux (rhymes with "Walks"). After the moving of 3 million tons of earth and the planting of 270,000 trees and shrubs, the park--almost entirely landscaped, despite its naturalistic appearance--opened to visitors in 1859 (though not officially completed until 1873).

Grand Army Plaza

This plaza, technically a part of Central Park but really a distinct entity, is bifurcated by Central Park South, a layout inspired by Paris' Place de la Concorde. It honors the Grand Army of the Republic, the powerful post-Civil War veteran's organization, comparable to the American Legion. The northern half of the plaza is dominated by Augustus St. Gaudens' gilded statue of Gen. William Tecumseh Sherman, who marched through Georgia and declared that "war is Hell." The female figure leading Sherman, said to represent Peace, is modeled on St. Gaudens' mistress Davida Johnson.


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East:

787 (corner): A 10-story luxury apartment building, built in 1903 to a Henry J. Hardenbergh design, was torn down and replaced by...

785 (corner): Parc V Apartments, 18 white-brick stories designed by Emery Roth & Sons and completed in 1963. "Would be unattractive even in a slum"--City Review

Sherry-Netherland Hotel

781 (corner): Opened in 1927 by ice cream magnate Louis Sherry and Waldorf-Astoria manager Lucius Boomer. The 38-story building was designed by Schultze & Weaver (who also did the Waldorf-Astoria) in a neo-Romanesque/Renaissance style with Gothic touches, including griffons guarding the front entrance. The lobby was modeled after the Vatican Library and includes friezes salvaged from Cornelius Vanderbilt's mansion. Guests included many show biz notables like George Burns, Danny Kaye, Dean Martin and Sammy Davis Jr.; Francis Ford Coppola lived here long enough to make it his daughter Sophia Coppola's childhood home, as depicted in New York Stories.

Cipriani's is the restaurant here, founded by Harry Cipriani and patterned after his Harry's Bar in Venice. Also in the hotel since 1961 is A La Vieille Russie, an antique business founded in 1851 with a specialty in Faberge eggs (Malcolm Forbes was a frequent customer), and Dominico Vacca, men's clothing.

W <===     CENTRAL PARK SOUTH/E 59TH ST     ===> E

NAACP protest July 28, 1917

West:

Pulitzer Fountain

The southern half of Grand Army Plaza is centered on this fountain, into which F. Scott Fitzgerald once jumped "just out of sheer joy," It was funded by the will of publisher Joseph Pulitzer --a beyond-the-grave challenge to his rival William Randolph Hearst, who had underwritten Columbus Circle's Maine Memorial. The statue in the fountain is Karl Bitter's Abundance, featuring the Roman goddess Pomona. Bitter, who had promoted the Place de la Concorde as a pattern for the Plaza, finished the clay model for the sculpture the same day he was fatally struck by a car outside the Metropolitan Opera House.

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General Motors Building

767 (block): This was the site of the Savoy Plaza Hotel, an elegant skyscraper hotel from 1892 that was home to Trader Vic's. The 50-story white-marble office tower that Edward Durell Stone designed for the car maker, completed in 1968, contrasts starkly with the decidedly non-Modern look of most of its neighbors. Since 1990, the north lobby houses the toy store FAO Schwarz, where Tom Hanks frolics in Big. More recently the once-sunken plaza here is the glass-cubed entrance to the 24-hour Apple Store, occupying a space that was once the car-themed Autopub. CBS's Early Show is also based here.

W <===     58TH STREET     ===> E

West:

Bergdorf Goodman

754 (corner): Starting out as a tailor shop where in 1899 Edwin Goodman went to work for Herman Bergdorf, the fashionable department store moved here in 1928. The building was originally designed as a series of shops by Buchman & Kahn; Bergdorf Goodman, one of the original tenants, eventually bought and expanded into the whole set except for the Van Cleef & Arpels store at the southern end of the block. The penthouse atop the store, once the Goodman family's private residence, was converted to a spa in 1997, not long after the store was bought out by Neiman Marcus.





















744 (corner): Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry store was built on the site of the mansion of Cornelius Vanderbilt II, designed by George B. Post and built from 1882-94; it was demolished in 1927 to make way for the row of shops. (Its gate was salvaged and placed at Central Park's 103rd Street entrance.) This Cornelius was the grandson and namesake of Commodore Vanderbilt, the railroad tycoon.

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Old Squibb Building

745 (corner): This 1930 office tower designed by Eli Jacques Kahn, replaced part of Marble Row, a string of white marble buildings built by Mary Mason Jones, Edith Wharton's great-aunt, who appears in The Age of Innocence as Mrs. Mingott. When Marble Row was built, in 1867-69, the neighborhood was largely unpopulated, and the white marble material flew in the face of the ubiquitous fashion for brownstone. Though the houses have all been torn down--this end of the block went in 1929--they still echo in the white and/or marble used in their replacements and in surrounding buildings.

The street-level facade here, unfortunately, was redone in colored marble in 1988--originally to honor Kahn's supposed original intentions, thwarted by Depression Era cutbacks, then, when it turned out Kahn very much wanted a white building here, just because the owners didn't like it that way.

The lobby features a ceiling mural by Arthur Covey featuring stylized airplanes flying over Manhattan.

The Squibb Building was for many years home to the magical toy store F.A.O. Schwartz, which later moved next door, and now houses Bergdorf Goodman's Men's Store.

743: Gilan jewelry

Corner (1 E 57th): Louis Vitton is on the site of Mary Mason Jones' own home on Marble Row. It was replaced in 1931 with the New York Trust Co. Building, by Cross & Cross, which followed the white-marble tradition that Jones had set. From 1993-2001, this was home to the whimsical Warner Brothers Store. Now Luis Vitton, which came in with a remodeling that replaced much of the white marble with a glossy green plastic-like substance. "Every dog and every cat and every people has Louis Vuitton" --Shonen Knife.

W <===     57TH STREET     ===> E

West:

Crown Building

730 (corner): Built in 1921 as the Heckscher Building to a Warren & Wetmore design, it was one of the first office towers put up after the 1916 Zoning Resolution, which mandated setbacks. Philippine dictator Ferdinand Marcos secretly bought the building in 1981. The Museum of Modern Art's first home was here on the 12th floor; its Modern Architecture--International Exhibition show in 1932, curated by Philip Johnson, established the International Style as the reining architectural fashion. The American Mercury, edited by H.L. Mencken and George Jean Nathan, opened here in 1923. Now houses the jewelry stores Bulgari (in the space that used to be I. Miller), Piaget and Mikimoto, as well as Playboy Enterprises.

















724: Prada opened this four-level store in 1998 in an effort to sell its elite brand to the hoi polloi.




720 (corner): Abercrombie & Fitch, a four-story flagship opened in 2005. Before being repositioned as a "casual luxury" brand noted for its scantily clad young models in 1988, it was a sporting goods store, founded in 1892, that provisioned the likes of Teddy Roosevelt, Amelia Earhardt and Ernest Shackleton. Ernest Hemingway is said to have bought the gun he killed himself with from Abercrombie & Fitch.

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Tiffany's

727 (corner): Where Holly Golightly has breakfast. Tiffany & Co. was founded as a stationery store in 1832 by Charles Lewis Tiffany (and co.); by 1853 it had become the noted jewelry store that it is today. On Charles' death in 1902, his son, the glass artist Louis Comfort Tiffany, became the firm's artistic director. Tiffany's is largely responsible for establishing the carat as the standard unit of measurement for diamond size.

The company moved here in 1940 to a not particularly distinguished building by Cross & Cross. It replaced the Collis P. Huntington mansion, built 1892 to a George B. Post design. The nine-foot Atlas holding a clock above the entrance has graced Tiffany's main store since 1853; it's wood painted to look like bronze, made by a sculptor of ship figureheads.

Previously on this site lived Cole Porter with his wife Linda Lee Thomas.

Trump Tower

721 (corner): A 68-story bronze-glass residential tower with a saw-toothed facade designed to create as many "corner" apartments as possible. Completed in 1983, it's been home to stars and celebs like Johnny Carson, Steven Spielberg, Dick Clark, Sophia Loren, Fay Wray, Paul Anka, Pia Zadora, Martina Navratilova and Andrew Lloyd Webber. Michael Jackson and Lisa Marie Presley had their honeymoon here. Featured in The Devil's Advocate, I'll Take Manhattan and Spider-Man. Gucci's flagship superstore moved here in 2008.

Formerly on the site was Bonwit Teller, department store founded in 1897 and moved here in 1930, to an Art Deco store designed by Warren & Wetmore and almost immediately redesigned by Eli Jacques Kahn. Surrealist Salvador Dali smashed the window here on March 15, 1939, furious that the store had altered the display he had designed. The company folded not longer after Trump forced one last move.

W <===     56TH STREET     ===> E

West:

Harry Winston

718 (corner): A prestigious jewelry firm established in 1932. Winston owned the Hope Diamond for 10 years, then donated it to the Smithsonian. He cut the 69-carat diamond that Richard Burton gave to Elizabeth Taylor in 1969. Marilyn Monroe exclaims in "Diamonds Are a Girl's Best Friend," "Talk to me, Harry Winston, tell me all about it." Edward Norton sings to Natasha Lyonne here in Everyone Says I Love You.

Henri Bendel

714: This half of the famed store (the "Bendel bonnet" was immortalized in "You're the Top") was the Rizzoli Building, built in 1909. The store, founded in 1896, moved here in 1990.

712: Also part of Bendel's is the Coty Building (Woodruff Leeming, 1909), whose sparkling glass was installed in 1912 by Rene Lalique and rediscovered when Bendel moved in. A 52-story office tower was added on top in 1990.

Fifth Avenue Presbyterian Church

Corner (7 W 55th): The congregation moved here from 19th Street in 1875. The brownstone neo-Gothic structure was designed by Carl Pfeiffer. Rev. Dr. John Bonnell, the pastor here from 1935 to 1962, introduced Dial-a-Prayer.

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719: George Gustave Heye lived at this defunct address; his collections became the core of the Museum of the American Indian.

Corning Glass Building

717 (corner): Mirrored green glass tower is a 1959 design by Harrison & Abromowitz & Abbe, the first glass-walled building on Fifth Avenue. The distinguished entrance was a 1994 remodeling by Gwathmey/Siegel. The Hugo Boss clothing store is here, replacing a Steuben glass store (a division of Corning).

715: Escada clothing









711 (corner): A graceful 1927 office building, once known as the Columbia Pictures Building and later as the Coca-Cola Building. (Coke until recently had a retail space on the ground floor and I believe still has offices upstairs.) The Disney Store opened in 1996, taking the space that used to be the Cote Basque, and is now one of the few remnants of some 800 stores Disney once owned. Alfred Dunhill clothing is also here.

W <===     55TH STREET     ===> E

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The Peninsula

700 (corner): The 23-story Beaux Arts hotel was built in 1905 as the Hotel Gotham--and bankrupted in 1908 because it was too close to the Presbyterian church to sell liquor. (The laws have since been reinterpreted.) Damon Runyon, Tallulah Bankhead and Alexander Woolcott all stayed here. Redesigned in 1987 by Pierre Cardin; renamed the Peninsula New York in 1988. Wempe jewelry, Sergio Rossi clothing and Lindt Chocolatier are on the ground floor.

























684: Florence Adele Vanderbilt and husband Hamilton McKown Twombly lived in a mansion built here for them by her father William Henry Vanderbilt.

University Club

Corner (1 W 54th): A 10-story "Florentine super-pallazo beyond the Medicis' wildest dreams" (AIA Guide), designed by Charles McKim, a member (along with Meade and White). 1899. The City Review calls it "the city's grandest clubhouse." The club was founded in 1865 to promote art and literature; members were required to have college degrees, hence the name. Women were not admitted until 1987.

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St. Regis Hotel

703 (corner): Built in 1904, designed by Trowbridge & Livingstone, and named for St. Regis Lake, an Adirondacks resort. One of the city's most elegant hotels, it may have been the first in the world to be air-conditioned, and originally boasted 47 Steinway pianos. The hotel's King Cole Bar is named for its Maxfield Parrish mural, moved here from the bar of the same name in the old Knickerbocker Hotel. Formerly home to the Seaglades and La Maisonette nightclubs.

Among the St. Regis' many famous guests and residents are Joseph Pulitzer, John Jacob Astor, Ernest Hemingway, Salvador Dali, John Lennon, Yoko Ono, Alfred Hitchcock, Rex Harrison, Humphrey Bogart, John Huston and Marlene Dietrich. When Marilyn Monroe stayed here during the filming of The Seven Year Itch, her fight with soon-to-be ex-husband Joe DiMaggio over the famous subway grate scene reportly woke up the whole floor.

Robert De Niro picks up Cybill Shepherd here in Taxi Driver; Mia Farrow is a cigarette girl here in Radio Days; Michael Caine and Barbara Hershey tryst here in Hannah and Her Sisters.

DeBeers, the most powerful diamond company in the world, has a store on the ground floor.

701: Pucci clothing

697-699: Bottega Veneta handbags

693: Takashimaya, fascinating Japanese department store--founded 1831 as a Kyoto kimono store, on 5th Avenue since 1958, here since 1993, when "the best Post-Modern building in the city" was built for it by John Burgee with Philip Johnson.

Aeolian Building

691: Elizabeth Arden salon is in this 14-story Warren & Wetmore building, built in 1926 for the piano company. Arden and her red door have been here since 1930.

689 (corner): Zara clothing is also in the Aeolian Building, in a space tastefully redesigned in 1970 for Gucci.

W <===     54TH STREET     ===> E

West:

684 (corner): William Henry Vanderbilt built a pair of mansions here in 1879, both designed by John Butler Snook. The one at this corner was built for his daughter Florence and her husband Hamilton Twombly.

680: Florence's sister Eliza (Lila) and her husband William Seward Webb got this mansion. The address, now the corner, is today Buchman Tower.

St. Thomas Church

Corner: The Episcopal congregation, established in 1823, moved here from in 1870. The original church on this site was designed by Richard Upjohn in the Gothic style. After a fire destroyed it in 1905, it was rebuilt "as medievally as was possible in early Twentieth-Century New York" (Fifth Avenue), reopening in 1916 (Cram, Goodhue and Ferguson, architects).

Former President Benjamin Harrison was married here on April 6, 1896; Consuelo Vanderbilt married the Duke of Marlborough here November 6, 1895. Thomas Dewey married June 16, 1928. The church is affiliated with the St. Thomas Choir School.

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685 (corner): Gucci moved here from the Aeolian, then went to Trump Tower. Becoming Hugo Bass.

681: Fortunoff jewelry is on the site of Dodworth's Dancing Academy, elite school that became the first home of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 1872. Founded in 1922, Fortunoff was on the edge of bankruptcy in 2008, with Lord & Taylor offering to buy them out.












677: Fendi clothing

675: Nine West shoes

673 (corner): Blanc de Chine

W <===     53RD STREET     ===> E

West:

Tishman Building

666 (block): This was the address of the mansion of William Kissam Vanderbilt Jr., great-grandson of the Commodore, an auto-racing enthusiast who founded the Vanderbilt Cup. The 1905 mansion, designed by McKim, Meade and White, was the last of the Vanderbilts' Fifth Avenue mansions. In 1957, an aluminum-clad office building with an apocalyptic address was put up here with a million square feet of space; the lobby waterfall was designed by Isamu Noguchi. Brooks Brothers, founded 1818, is on the ground floor, along with Hickey Freeman and the NBA Store. Top of the Sixes, the top-floor restaurant, is now the Grand Havana Room, a private cigar club.

660 (corner): William Kissam Vanderbilt Sr., son of William H., grandson of the Commodore, and "the" Vanderbilt after the death of his brother Cornelius II, was one of the first Vanderbilts to live on Fifth Avenue, living in the Petit Chateau, a mansion designed by Richard Morris Hunt and built from 1879-82 and demolished in 1926.

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665 (corner): The Rolex Building was built in 1924 as Georg Jensen, Scandinavian department store. Modernized in 1977 when the watch company moved in. The Swiss consulate is located here; St. John clothing is on the ground floor.

663: Ermengildo Zegna clothing










657 (corner): Here were the opulent mansion and offices of Madame Restell, New York's leading abortion-provider from the 1840s until 1878, when she committed suicide after being arrested for selling birth control by Anthony Comstock of the New York Society for the Suppression of Vice. Now Salvatore Ferragamo clothing.

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West:

Corner (2 W 52nd): Formerly the site of the mansion of Emily Vanderbilt and her husband William Douglas Sloane, paid for by Emily's father William Henry Vanderbilt. It was part of the Triple Palace, three Vanderbilt mansions designed by John Butler Snook and built from 1879-82, all paid for by Emily's father William Henry Vanderbilt.

650 (corner): This building was put up by the Pahlavi Foundation, a non-profit started in 1973 by the Shah of Iran--whether as a genuine charity or as a financial scam is unclear to me. In any case, it was taken over after the Iranian Revolution by pro-Khomeini types, who changed the name of the group to the Alavi Foundation and use it to promote Islamic culture. They apparently still most of their money from the rent on this building from businesses like Mexx clothing and Travelers Fine Jewelry.

Replaced the DePinna Building, a nine-story 1928 structure.






642: This was the address of the middle section of the Triple Palace, belonging to William Henry's daughter Margaret and her husband Elliott Fitch Shepard.

640 (corner): First National City Bank of New York; H & M. This was the address of William Henry Vanderbilt's own piece of the Triple Palace. (Actually, he got half of the bifurcated structure, which is only fair since he paid for it.) William, who headed the railroad empire after the death of his father, Commodore Cornelius Vanderbilt, was at his death the wealthiest person in the world. Though noted for his quip "The public be damned!" he was reportedly much nicer than his father.

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Cartier

651 (corner): This entire block was the site of the Catholic Orphanage until 1900. The Vanderbilts bought up most of the land in 1902 to prevent a hotel from being built on this corner, which instead became the Morton F. Plant House (Robert W. Gibson, 1905). Plant sold it to Cartier in 1915 for $100 and a million-dollar pearl necklace. The store was restored to its Renaissance-style glory in the 1990s. The jewelry house, founded in 1847, is credited with inventing the first practical wristwatch in 1904.

Versace

647: Versace store was George W. Vanderbilt House (Hunt & Hunt, 1905); George, a younger son of William H., was the one who built Biltmore, a 125,000-acre estate in North Carolina. It and the house at No. 645 were known as the Marble Twins, though they were actually faced with limestone. It was leased to real-estate magnate Robert Goelet, then to art dealers Rene Gimpel and Nathan Wildenstein. Eventually it was sold to American Express. It later served as Olympic Airways' ticket office. Versace leased it in 1995; it's now the only surviving Vanderbilt building on 5th Avenue.

645 (corner): This was the address of Lila Vanderbilt Sloane, granddaughter of William H. Vanderbilt, and her husband William Bradford Osgood Field. It was torn down in 1945 for Best & Company, high-end children's store, which in turn was torn down for the present building, Olympic Tower (1977), which houses Gant and Armani Exchange clothing, H. Stern jewelry.

641 (corner): The Union Club was based here from 1903 to 1933. The club, founded in 1836, is the oldest men's club in New York City; the Union League, Knickerbocker, Brook and Metropolitan clubs are all spin-offs.

W <===     51ST STREET     ===> E

West:

Rockefeller Center

The land that is now Rockefeller Center was once the Elgin Botanic Garden, 20 acres of mainly medicinal herbs established by Dr. David Hosack, the physician who attended Alexander Hamilton after his fatal duel with Aaron Burr. The Lewis and Clark expedition sent plants here for identification.

The garden was sold to the state in 1810, which granted it to Columbia University, which allowed the garden to be developed. In 1929, the land was leased to John D. Rockefeller, who built on it an Art Deco masterpiece that is one of New York City's crowning architectural achievements.

International Building

630 (corner): Completed in 1935 as part of the original Rockefeller Center complex, this is a reduced-scale (41 stories) version of the RCA Building. Its north wing was originally going to be a German counterpart of the Italian, French and British buildings to the south, but with Nazism on the march the idea was dropped and the building was generically internationalized. Attilia Piccirilli's Youth Leading Industry adorns the entrance; symbols of the continents are atop the building.

Lee Lawrie's Atlas, between the two wings, can be seen from St. Patrick's altar. It's one of the sites the sailors see in the movie On the Town; it also features in Gentleman's Agreement, Bonfire of the Vanities and Hercules in New York (where it's said to be not a good likeness).

626 (corner): The Palazzo D'Italia is taken up entirely by Banana Republic's flagship store--what does that say about Italy? The entrance bronzes The Italian Immigrant and Italia by Giacomo Manzu were given to Rockefeller Center by Fiat.

Department store owner Benjamin Altman died at this address on October 7, 1913.

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St. Patrick's Cathedral

Begun in 1858 and dedicated in 1879, St. Pat's is seen as symbolizing the ascension of New York's Catholic community, as the archbishop's seat moved from the Lower East Side to the heart of New York's elite district (though the neighborhood wasn't all that elite back then). Designed by James Renwick, Jr.--the architect of Grace Church--who modeled it on the Cologne Cathedral. Here's an arial view.

Pope Paul VI said mass here on October 4, 1964, during the first papal visit to America. Funerals were held here for Gen. William Tecumseh Sherman (1891), Gov. Alfred E. Smith (1944), slugger Babe Ruth (1948), conductor Arturo Toscanini (1957) and Sen. Robert F. Kennedy (1968). F. Scott Fitzgerald and Zelda Sayre were married here on April 3, 1920--but in the cardinal's residence, not in the cathedral itself, because it was a mixed marriage.
























W <===     50TH STREET     ===> E

West:

British Empire Building

620: A 1933 building meant to showcase British culture and commerce, but aside from Crabtree & Evelyn, there's not much anglophilia in evidence. It does have upscale shops like Cole Haan shoes, Coach handbags and Teuscher Swiss chocolates. Over the entrance is Carl Paul Jennewein's bronze Industries of the British Commonwealth.

616: Bergdorf Goodman was here from 1914 to 1928.

Channel Gardens

As the Channel separates Britain and France, they separate Rockefeller Center's British and French buildings. The Gardens form a promenade that leads to the Center's sunken plaza.

La Maison Francaise

610: This 1933 building used to house the French Consulate, and it still has the Librairie de France bookstore, L'Occitane, a Provencal beauty products store, and Movado, a Swiss watch company. Kenneth Cole shoes has the 5th Avenue side. Over the entrance is Alfred Janniot's bas-relief, The Friendship of France and the United States, a work of art perhaps more necessary today than ever.

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Corner: Site of the New York Institute for the Instruction of the Deaf and Dumb, the first such school in the U.S. when it opened in 1852.

Saks Fifth Avenue

Block: Launched in 1924 by Horace Saks and Bernard Gimbel, partners in Gimbel's on 34th Street, it brought upscale shopping to what was then a largely residential neighborhood. The building replaced the Democratic Club and the Buckingham Hotel.




















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608 (corner): The Goelet Building, a 1932 building of marble, limestone and stainless steel, houses the Swiss Center.

604: The TGI Fridays here was originally the Childs Restaurant Building (''Now they watch her flipping flapjacks at Childs''--Wonderful Town), built in 1925, and it was designed by William Van Alen, better known for the Chrysler Building.

600 (corner): The building with a Barnes & Noble branch is technically part of Rockefeller Center, though its neighbors to the north are not.

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609 (corner): American Girl Place, a store, cafe, photo studio and theater-- all revolving around the popular historically themed doll line.

601: Was the Dahesh Museum of Art

597: The Sephora store was the long-time offices and store of Charles Scribner's Sons, a landmark designed in 1913 by Ernest Flagg (Charles Scribner's brother-in-law). From here were published some of the great American novelists, including F. Scott Fitzgerald, Ernest Hemingway, Edith Wharton, Thomas Wolfe and Ring Lardner.

W <===     48TH STREET     ===> E

West:

592 (corner): This Modernist white prism with black window-slits started out in 1913 as a neo-Classical design by Carrere & Hastings (of NYPL fame) for the Black, Starr & Frost jewelry company. It was radically reclad in 1964. Once the National Bank of North America, it's now a Fleet Bank branch.

On this corner in 1859 was built the Collegiate Reformed Church, aka the Church of St. Nicholas, for the congregation established by the Dutch in New Amsterdam.

580 (corner): The Diamond Dealers Club, located here, is the governing body of the Diamond District; disputes between dealers are settled here rather than in civil court. This building is also home to the Gemological Institute of America, which established the "four Cs" system for grading diamonds.

578 (corner): From 1870 to 1882, this was the address of financier Jay Gould, a director of the Erie Railroad whose 1869 attempt to corner the gold market sparked the panic known as Black Friday.

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579 (corner): Jay Gould moved across the street to this address in 1882. An insomniac, he paced in front of his house each night with two bodyguards. After his death here on December 2, 1892, the house went to his daughter Helen Miller Gould Shepherd, an eccentric philanthropist. In 1942, it was leased by Gimbel Brothers, whose Kendel Galleries held art and jewelry auctions here. In 1952, when it was demolished, it was perhaps the last 5th Avenue brownstone in Midtown.

W <===     47TH STREET     ===> E

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Diamond District

Corner: Jewelers on Fifth on this corner is the eastern edge of a block almost entirely devoted to selling diamonds--as featured in the movie Marathon Man.










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575 (corner): This 1985 Emery Roth & Sons design absorbed the former Korvette's, originally W & J Sloane.

565: The address of the Windsor Hotel, opened 1874, home to John D. Rockefeller and Andrew Carnegie and a favorite dining spot for Jay Gould; other notable guests included writers Oscar Wilde and Matthew Arnold, and King Kalakaua of Hawaii. On March 17, 1899, during the St. Patrick's Day parade, the hotel burned to the ground, killing 33. Isadora Duncan, leading a dance class in the hotel at the time, managed to get her students to safety.

Corner: HMV Records; the British chain's name stands for "His Master's Voice."

W <===     46TH STREET     ===> E

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556: The art dealer M. Knoedler & Co. had a gallery here designed by Carrere & Hastings. When he moved to East 57th Street in 1925, it became a popular Schraft's restaurant until c. 1950. The building, greatly altered, is now the Philippine Center, housing the consulate, U.N. mission, trade board and tourist office.


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Before 5th Avenue was built up, the city's slaughterhouse district lay between 5th and 4th (Park) avenues from 46th to 44th streets.




551 (corner): The Fred F. French Building, 1927 headquarters of the company that designed and built Tudor City. This was previously the address of the Church of the Heavenly Rest, built in 1868 to an Edward Tuckerman Potter design.

W <===     45TH STREET     ===> E

West:

Corner: The site of the Church of the Divine Paternity, where on December 4, 1872, the funeral of Horace Greeley, owner of the New York Tribune, was held. President Grant was among the many notable attendees.

530 (block): Bank of New York

Corner: The Fifth Avenue Bank opened in a former townhouse here in 1890, specializing in serving wealthy society women.

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Corner: This was the uptown site of Delmonico's, long New York's most prestigious restaurant, from 1898 until 1923. This location introduced smoking in the dining room--designed to prevent men from deserting the ladies after dinner--and an orchestra that played background music rather than a concert that people were expected to pay attention to.

W <===     44TH STREET     ===> E

West:

522 (corner): This building, a Stanford White design, was from 1898 until 1919 Sherry's Hotel, a symbol of Gilded Age excesses featured in Theodore Dreiser's novel Sister Carrie. It was the scene of notorious parties: At one held by C.K.G. Billings in 1903 to celebrate the opening of his stables, the guests sat on horseback and the waiters dressed as jockeys. James Hazen Hyde, vice president of Equitable Life Insurance, spent $200,000 of his company's money here at a party meant to recreate Versailles; public outrage forced Hyde to flee the country and prompted reform of the insurance industry.

Site of the Colored Orphan Asylum

Block: An orphanage housing hundreds of African-American children here was burned to the ground on August 1, 1863 during the Draft Riots. While most of the orphans escaped out the back, a young girl who was found hiding under a bed was lynched.

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Corner: This was the site of The Willow Inn, owned by Tom Hyer, ''a noted pugilist and brawler more violent out of the ring than in'' (Fifth Avenue: The Best Address). When it was torn down in 1905, it was said to be ''the last bar on 5th Avenue.''











Corner: Here was Temple Emanu-El, built in 1867 for the first Reform congregation in New York City. It was designed by Leopold Eidlitz in the Moorish style. The congregation moved in 1927.

W <===     43RD STREET     ===> E

West:

512 (corner): This was the address of the Hotel Renaissance, home to notables like architect William Rutherford Mead (of McKim, Mead and White) and German-American publisher and politician Carl Schurz. Naturalist Ernest Thomas Seton had a suite here decorated with animal skins.

510: St. Bernard's School was founded here in 1904.




500 (corner): The Transportation Building originally housed offices of national railroads; later it became a center for international airlines. Nat Sherman, tobacconist to the world, is on the ground floor. This building appears in the 1946 film noir The Dark Corner as the "Grant Building," where a character is thrown from a dentist office on the 31st floor--where, in fact, a dentist office can be found today.

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511 (corner): At this defunct address was the brownstone residence of William "Boss" Tweed, the famously corrupt leader of Tammany Hall, New York's reigning political machine. When Tweed was arrested for graft in 1876, he was allowed to return here to get clothes for jail-- but instead fled from here to Florida, Cuba and Spain. Spain extradited him back to New York, where he died in jail in 1878.

In 1882, Richard T. Wilson, a former Confederate cotton merchant, built a house at this address; he was noted for his attractive children, who married into the Astor, Vanderbilt and Goelet families. The house was demolished in 1915.

509: The address of Elizabeth Arden's first cosmetic shop.

501: Peck & Peck, an elite men's wear shop, moved here from the Flatiron district in 1910, one of the first major retail outlets to move above 42nd Street.

W <===     42ND STREET     ===> E

By 1837, 5th Avenue was paved to this intersection--which was menaced by Godzilla in the American remake.

See The Big Map for photos of the avenue from here to 59th Street.

West:

New York Public Library

Technically, this is just one of four research libraries--the Humanities & Social Science Library, to be specific--but this is the heart and soul of the NYPL. One of the world's greatest libraries, the NYPL was formed in 1895 by combing the Astor, Lenox and Tilden libraries. From 1902 to 1911, this Beaux Arts architectural masterpiece designed by Carrere & Hastings was constructed to house the collection. The Main Reading Room, restored in 1998, is considered one of the city's great interiors.

Authors who have used this library include Isaac Bashevis Singer, E.L. Doctorow, Somerset Maugham, Norman Mailer, John Updike, Tom Wolfe and Frank McCourt. The Xerox copier, the Polaroid camera and the atomic bomb were all researched here. Almost all the information in Ripley's Believe It or Not! came from here--as did much of Reader's Digest.

The famous marble lions in front of the library are nicknamed Patience (south) and Fortitude (north)--so dubbed by Mayor Fiorella LaGuardia. The Cowardly Lion hides behind one in the movie The Wiz.

This was previously the site of the Croton Distributing Reservoir, a massive tank holding water from the Croton River, completed in 1842. Walking along its monumental Egyptian walls was a popular recreation, recommended by Edgar Allan Poe; the base of the reservoir serves today as the library's foundation. Croton Cottage, a place of refreshment, was at the corner of 5th and 40th.

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479-481: This was the last store (here from 1915 until the mid-1980s) of the Rogers, Peet clothing chain, which helped introduce such innovations as the fabric label, the money-back guarantee and the use of illustrations of merchandise in advertising. Actor John Barrymore worked for a time drawing cartoons for Rogers, Peet ads.













E 41ST ST         E ===>












W <===     40TH STREET     ===> E

West:

452: HSBC Tower, formerly the Republic National Bank Tower, a 1983 building that incorporates the 1902 Knox Hat Building. (Knox Hats-- one of which was worn by Abraham Lincoln--is still around on 8th Avenue.) HSBC is the Hong Kong Shanghai Bank Company. The building houses the Boomer Esiason Foundation, fighting cystic fibrosis.

450: Defunct address was the Macbeth Gallery, where the painters known as "The Eight" (aka the Ashcan School) had a groundbreaking show.

438 (corner): Circus promoter P.T. Barnum used to live at this defunct corner address. Later this was the site of the Wendel mansion, home of the heirs to John Jacob Astor's partner in the fur trade. ''North of it [was] the 'million-dollar yard' which they refused to sell because... the three Wendel ladies, spinsters all, desired to keep the yard for their little dog to exercise in''-- Greatest American City

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Mid-Manhattan NY Public Library

445: Not as cool as the Main Branch, but here you can check the books out.

On this site was Gordon's Riding Academy, where the first polo game in America (and perhaps the first ever indoors) was played in 1876, introduced to this country by newspaper heir James Gordon Bennett Jr.














W <===             39TH STREET             ===> E

West:

Lord & Taylor

424-434 (corner): A New York fixture since 1825, the department store built this (once) elegant building in 1914-- breaking neighborhood tradition by looking like a store, not a mansion. When built, the window displays could be lowered on tracks to the basement, for instant replacement. Still noted for its Christmas displays.

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445 (corner): Fifth Avenue Tower, 34 stories completed in 1985.

435: Alberene Cashmeres, good prices on fine woolens





W <===             38TH STREET             ===> E

West:

Corner: Site of the W&J Sloane store. (Their previous store is now ABC Carpets.)

414: Former Stern Brothers clerk Franklin Simon opened a store here in 1902, the first important retail business to open above 34th Street on 5th Avenue.

Corner: From 1858 to 1938, this was the site of the Brick Presbyterian Church, where Mark Twain's funeral was held, April 23, 1910. Samuel Osgood, the first postmaster general, was buried here in 1813.

At this corner, Buster Keaton got on a double-decker bus--on a different level from his date--in the silent movie The Cameraman.

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W <===             37TH STREET             ===> E

West:

404 (corner): This was the A.T. Stewart & Co. store, built in 1914 to a Warren & Wetmore design, noted for its delicate blue-and-white terra cotta. The store moved further uptown to 56th Street in 1928; the building was landmarked in 2006.







Everything else on this block was demolished in 2007.

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409 (corner): Stanford White designed this building for Tiffany's in 1906, basing the plan on Venice's Palazzo Grimani. It was "the most magnificent retail space in New York City," according to Christopher Gray. The jewelry firm moved to 57th Street in 1940.

401: As Seen On TV, a store that sells things "not available in any stores."

393: Yankees Clubhouse, sports souvenirs

389: Was Fifth Avenue Coffee Bar & Restaurant


W <===             36TH STREET             ===> E

West:

390 (corner): Gorham Building, designed for the Gorham jewelry company by Stanford White in 1906. Later Russek's Furs (1923-49). In 1960, the owner, Spear Securities, ordered much of White's delicate relief sculpture and archways to be torn off.





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375: Oxford Cafe



W <===             35TH STREET             ===> E

West:

Corner (2 W 35th): Catwalk, bar with an actual catwalk where would-be models can practice their moves.

Corner (1 W 34th): Site of the opulent marble mansion of department store founder Alexander T. Stewart, who despite his wealth was shunned by New York society, as represented by his neighbor, Mrs. William Astor. Stewart built his mansion in 1867 after tearing down the previous mansion of Dr. Samuel B. Townsend, the Sarsaparilla King. The mansion was for a time the home of the Manhattan Club, a Democratic Party association. It was torn down early in the 20th Century.

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CUNY Graduate Center

Building was B. Altman & Co. Department Store; when it opened in 1906 it helped pull upper-class retail to this stretch of Fifth Avenue. Bankrupt in 1989. Now the B. Altman Advanced Learning Super Block, including CUNY's Graduate School and University Center, the NYPL's Science, Industry and Business Library, and Oxford University Press. The building appears in the movie Elf as the department store where Will Ferrell works.




W <===             34TH STREET             ===> E

See The Big Map for photos of the avenue from here to 42nd Street.

West:

Empire State Building

This block was the site of two mansions owned by the Astor family--the northern half was owned by Caroline (Mrs. William) Astor, whose annual parties literally defined New York society; the ballroom could hold 400 guests, and these "Four Hundred" were considered the who's who.

The southern half held the mansion of her nephew, William Waldorf Astor, which inspired the fashion for mansard roofs. Feuding over who had the right to be referred to as "Mrs. Astor," the nephew in 1893 replaced his house with the Waldorf Hotel, designed by Henry Hardenbergh, in order to spite his aunt. (Waldorf was John Jacob Astor's hometown in Germany.) Caroline Astor responded by replacing her own home with the Astoria Hotel, also designed by Hardenbergh, which were combined in 1897 to create the Waldorf-Astoria (though Caroline insisted on the right to re-separate the hotels at any time). The hotel catered to the super-wealthy; B.C. Forbes, of Forbes magazine, used to have a regular poker game there with Henry Clay Frick and other plutocrats. U.S. Steel was born at the hotel in 1901. The Waldorf salad was invented there in 1896. In 1929 the hotel relocated uptown, and the Empire State Building was built on this site.

With ground broken on January 22, 1930, the building took only a year and 45 days to complete. The architect, William Lamb, said his design was inspired by a pencil. At 102 stories and 1,454 feet, it was the tallest building in the world from 1931 until 1974; there are still only three buildings in the world with more floors.

The mast on top was supposed to be a mooring tower for dirigibles, but the idea was abandoned due to chronic high winds shortly before dirigibles were themselves abandoned. On July 28, 1945, a B-25 bomber flying through fog crashed into the 79th floor, killing 11 people. Allen Ginsberg briefly worked in an advertising office here.

The building was famously climbed by the giant gorilla in King Kong, and was a meeting place for lovers in An Affair to Remember and Sleepless in Seattle.

See the official guide to the colors of the Tower Lights.

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347: J.S. Sutton & Son, New York Souvenirs--est. 1925. It's older than the Empire State Building--the Empire State Building should be selling souvenirs of this place!



















339 (corner): This 1916 building by Trowbridge and Livingston has beautiful large arched windows.


W <===             33RD STREET             ===> E

West:

Corner (330 5th Ave): Maui Tacos



322: Hudson River School painter Albert Bierstadt died at his home at this address in 1902.

320 (corner): A neo-classical building from 1904 that houses handbag and accessory showrooms.

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333 (corner): Big George's Pizza; Sedutto Ice Cream

325: The Irish Treasury, pub





319 (corner): The location of the exclusive Knickerbockers Club.


W <===             32ND STREET             ===> E

West:

316 (corner): Kaskel & Kaskel Building, "a wonderful crusty old Beaux Arts building" from 1903--AIA Guide. Designed by Cady & Berg--note the Kaskel monogram in the cartouche above the grand entrance. Houses 316 Fifth Avenue Electronics; Soup & Smoothie Heaven.

314: Empire (formerly Mimmo's) Pizza is at the address of Polk's Hobby Shop, a model-train Mecca featured in The Godfather. You can still see the old name above the doorway.

312: Andiamo Fine Men's Wear & Shoes

310: JJ Hat Center, a serious hat store

306: Torkan USA, rugs

304: LaCrasia/Glove Street, specialty glove store that includes a glove museum.

302: Was Shields Fifth Avenue, jewelry outlet that became a trademark.

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315: A 1905 Renaissance Revival building by Maynicke and Franke. Galleria is on the ground floor; on the third floor is the Third Floor Cafe. This was the address of Durand-Ruel, an art dealer that provided European Impressionists for American millionaires.

313: Collegeware USA






309: Sinclair Lewis lived at this address as a struggling short-story writer.

307: Hiram Haddad Building has stylized facade designs--sort of Mideastern Deco.

303 (corner): Veratex is in a 20-story 1909 building designed by Buchman & Fox, built as a headquarters for the FAO Schwartz toy store.


W <===             31ST STREET             ===> E

West:








284 (corner): Shalom Brothers Oriental Rug Gallery is in the Wilbraham Building, 1890 Belle Epoque apartments designed for bachelors by David & John Jardine. Spookily charming. On the second floor is Kyokushin Karate.

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Textile Building

295 (block): An imposing 1920 building by Sommerfeld & Steckler, it began the shift of this stretch of the avenue from retail to wholesale commerce. Still houses showrooms for the bed, bath and linen industry.

291: Was the address of the Little Galleries of the Photo-Secession, also known as 291, where Alfred Steiglitz showcased such new artists as Henri Matisse (1908), Henri Rousseau and Paul Cezanne (both 1910), and Pablo Picasso (1911).


W <===             30TH STREET             ===> E

West:

Holland House

Corner: Named for Lord Holland's mansion in London, on which it was modeled, it was considered one of the premier hotels in the world when built in 1890 (Harding & Gooch, architects). Gainesborough's Duchess of Devonshire, the most famous stolen painting of its day, spent the night here in 1901 after being recovered after being stolen for 25 years by criminal mastermind Adam Worth. (See All Around the Town, p. 217.)

The first cross-country auto trip ended here July 16, 1903, when Horatio Nelson Jackson drove to the hotel from San Francisco in 63 days.

Marble Collegiate Church

Corner (1 W 29th): Built in 1851, this Dutch Reformed church is noted for being the pulpit of Norman Vincent Peale, who combined Christianity and motivational speaking in such books as The Power of Positive Thinking. Richard Nixon attended this church and was influenced by Peale; his daugter Julie married Dwight Eisenhower II here in 1968. Other famous weddings here were Enrico Caruso's to Dorothy Benjamin in 1918, Donald Trump's to Ivana in 1977 (he also met Marla Maples there), and Liza Minelli's to David Guest in 2002.

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W <===             29TH STREET             ===> E

West:

260: This building was used for rooftop shots in Spider-Man 2.

256: Building with Silver & Crystal Collection is a "neo-Venetian Gothic, somewhat Moorish phantasmagoria"--AIA Guide. It's hard to find three square inches that aren't decorated.

254: Dano Bar

250 (corner): Broadway National Bank was Second National Bank (1908)--a lesser McKim, Mead & White effort.

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261 (corner): A 26-story 1929 highrise from Buchman $amp; Fox.







251: The address of Black, Starr & Frost, a fashionable jewelry firm, from c. 1876 to 1913.


W <===             28TH STREET             ===> E

At this intersection in 1939, Murder Inc.'s Louis "Lepke" Buchalter surrendered to FBI Director J. Edgar Hoover and columnist Walter Winchell, hoping that he would get more lenient treatment from the Feds than from local authorities. He was executed in the electric chair in 1944.

West:

246 (corner): Yi Li Da Inc., export/importers, is in an 1892 building I find very interesting, with its three-story arch and its asymmetry.

242: Glassy facade was ahead of its time in 1892.

240: Man Hing Import Corporation, Oriental art and antiques

238: Istanbul Grand Bazaar, carpets

236: Ilili, high-end Lebanese

234 (corner): Naturally Tasty, health food coffee shop. At this address, Enrico Caruso recorded the first million-selling record--"Vesti La Giubba" from Il Pagliacci.

At this corner, 25-year-old Dorothy Arnold was last seen on December 12, 1910. The disappearance of the wealthy young woman is a mystery that has never been solved.

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241: Chohung Bank of New York



235: Great Eastern Bank

museumofse[x]

233 (corner): A newish institution dedicated to erotic history and culture. Its website used to have an amazing map of Manhattan's sexual history.


W <===             27TH STREET             ===> E

West:

230 (corner): The Victoria Building is on the site of the Victoria Hotel, where President Grover Cleveland lived between his two separated terms of office. Ax-wielding prohibitionist Carry Nation stayed there on a trip to New York in 1901, insisting that a marble statue of Diana in the lobby be covered with cheesecloth. The present 19-story building, a 1914 effort by Schwartz & Gross, has Alpine Designs, oddly named oriental furniture store, on the ground floor; Miller Import and La Vie International have moved out, as the upscale part of the Wholesale District seems to be vacating. On the roof is 230 Fifth, a trendy bar with a spectacular view.

This corner was the site of the Victoria Hotel, a favorite of Grover Cleveland.

224: Was Jay Import

222: PTS International. This was the address of the Travelers' Club, a 19th Century organization that presented talks by prominent visitors. Present building c. 1900.

220 (corner): Crystal Clear Galleries is on the ground floor of the 20-story Croisic Building (Frederick C. Browne and Randolph H. Amiroty, 1910)-- on the site of the Croisic Hotel, named for Richard de Logerot, Marquis de Croisic, aristocrat and hotelier. (Actor Richard Mansfield used to live at the hotel.) Note fleur-de-lises on the facade, fancy gargoyles on top floor.

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The Grand Madison

225 (block): Handsome red-brick building was formerly the Brunswick Hotel, noted as the home of the Coaching Club, which held carriage parades up 5th Avenue. On July 14, 1880, on the 16th day of a celebrated 40-day fast, Dr. Henry S. Tanner stopped here and drank two ounces of water. Later it was known as the Gift Building, "the premiere international giftware showplace." Now converted to luxury condos--why couldn't they have called it The Brunswick, a name with 125 years of history?









221: This nonexistent address was the home of Napoleon Solo, the Man From U.N.C.L.E.










W <===             26TH STREET             ===> E

West:

212 (corner): This was the site of Dodworth Studios, where Teddy Roosevelt took dance lessons as a boy. In 1876 Delmonico's, at the time the most fashionable restaurant in New York, moved here. The women's organization Sorosis met in an upstairs room. When Delmonico's moved uptown in 1899, it became Cafe Martin, where on June 25, 1906 architect Sanford White had his last meal before being shot at his Madison Square Garden. This building went up in 1913; the FX cable channel was here in the 1990s.

210: Dramatic bay windows and over-the-top detailing mark the Cross Chambers Building, a 1901 project of John B. Snook & Sons. Houses Dewey's Flatiron, notable neighborhood restaurant; Used to be the flagship store of Mark Cross.

208: Was Yedsonic electronics

206: Memories of New York, elaborate souvenir shop. On the 3rd floor is Urban Angler.

204: Pentagram, international design company that has done work for the Public Theater, the Mesa Grill and the New York Times Magazine, among other clients. Used to be MK, a 1980s nightclub where Moby played his first live electronic gig in 1989.

202 (corner): Commonwealth Criterion, manufacturer of Christmas decorations, is part of the Christmas District. The site of Worth House, a hotel that by 1900 housed the Berlitz School of Languages. The present building, dating to 1918, was the flagship store (with science museum) of the A.C. Gilbert Company, a toy company that made the Erector set, radioactive chemistry sets and American Flyer model trains.


W <=== W 25TH ST

Worth Square

Marks the grave of Gen. William Jenkins Worth, namesake of Ft. Worth, Texas and downtown's Worth Street. After fighting in the War of 1812, he became commandant of cadets at West Point. During the Seminole Wars, he pioneered the targeting of civilian populations and the use of starvation as a tool of warfare. Fighting in the Mexican-American War, he led the capture of Mexico City, and was given command of the newly conquered terriories of Texas and New Mexico. He died of cholera in San Antonio in 1849, and was buried here in 1857.

Rectangular structure leads to Water Tunnel No. 1, carrying water from Catskills.

In 1899, an arch made of wood and plaster was erected over 5th Avenue between 25th and 24th streets to celebrate Admiral George Dewey's destruction of the Spanish fleet in Manilla Bay. Only Dewey's rapid fall in popularity prevented it from being replaced with a permanent stone version.


W <=== W 24TH ST

International Toy Center

200 (corner): International Toy Center, since 1925 center of U.S. toy business; note toy and holiday displays. The LA Cafe is on the ground floor. On the corner, you can still make out a sign for the Garfield National Bank, which was around from 1881-1929 before merging with the Chase National Bank. In The Sweet Smell of Success, it serves as the offices of The New York Globe, J.J. Hunsecker's newspaper.

Replaced the Fifth Avenue Hotel (1858-1908), once the most exclusive hotel in NYC; presidents Grant and Arthur, as well as the Prince of Wales, stayed here. It was a gathering place for fat cats like Boss Tweed, Jay Gould, Jim Fisk and Commodore Vanderbilt, who would would trade stocks here after hours. A Republican bastion, it was here that the Democrats were first described as the party of "rum, Romanism and rebellion." But it was also a hangout for cultural figures like Mark Twain, O. Henry, Edwin Booth, William Cullen Bryant and Stanford White. It was used as the setting of Gore Vidal’s 1876.

Earlier on this site was Franconi's Hippodrome (1852-59); before that was Corporal Thompson's Madison Cottage, a roadhouse described by the New York Herald as "one of the most agreeable spots for an afternoon's lounge in the suburbs of our city." It had been the house of John Horn, who used to own what is now Madison Square Park.

The sidewalk clock, from 1909, was a once common sight in the pre-wristwatch era.

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Madison Square Park

The 1807 plan set aside 240 acres in this vicinity as The Parade, to be used for military training. In that same year, the U.S. Arsenal was built here to defend the strategic intersection of the Bloomingdale Road (now Broadway) and the Eastern Post Road. By 1814, when the park was named Madison Square after the then-current president, it had been reduced to 90 acres. In 1847, when Madison Square Park was opened, less than seven acres remained.

The park, which was laid out in its current form in 1870, was the center of New York society in the 1860s and '70s. "The vicinity of Madison Square is the brightest, prettiest and liveliest portion of the great city," James McCabe wrote in 1872.

In July 1901, an attempt to turn seating in the park into a for-profit concession sparked rioting.

The park provides a setting for O. Henry short stories like "The Cop and the Anthem" and "The Sparrows in Madison Square").

The U.S. Arsenal was converted by 1824 to the House of Refuge of the Society for the Reformation of Juvenile Delinquents--the first such institution in the country.

Admiral Farragut Memorial

1881 commemoration of David Glasgow Farragut, Civil War fleet commander, best remembered for his "damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead" line. Sculpture by Augustus Saint-Gaudens, pedestal by Stanford White. Considered to be the first use of Art Nouveau in U.S.























Eternal Light

World War I memorial flagpole (1918-23), said to symbolize the eternal peace produced by the "War to End All Wars." When Charles Lindbergh was given a parade in 1927--attended by an estimated 4 million spectators--he stopped here to lay a wreath.




























William Seward Statue

Statue of William Seward (1801-72); an early abolitionist who became NY governor (1838-42) and a U.S. senator (1848-61), he served as secretary of state under Lincoln and Andrew Johnson. He's most remembered for buying Alaska from Russia for $7 million in 1867. In 1876, sculptor Randolph Rogers, after being stiffed on his commission, reused a cast of Lincoln's body to make the statue cheaply; Seward was actually a short man with a big head.


W <===         BROADWAY / E 23RD ST         ===> E
W <===         W 23RD ST / BROADWAY         ===> E

Fifth Avenue was extended from 13th Street to 23rd Street in 1830--taken to 42nd Street in 1837.

See The Big Map for photos of the avenue from here to 34th Street.

West:

Western Union Building

186: Built 1883 in Queen Anne style by Henry Hardenbergh. Sent messages via pneumatic tube 2.5 miles to downtown office. Note "W.U. 1883" near peak. Jadore French Bakery, Luz's Shoe Repair are on the ground floor.

184: Was Marino's catering/deli; earlier Squire's Coffee Shop, whose cool neon sign has been uncovered

182: Deli Marche seems to have a cast-iron facade.

178: City Market Cafe; in a well-preserved brownstone

Eisenberg's Sandwich Shop

174: Opened in 1927, it hasn't changed much since then--an unparalleled Old New York experience. Popular with cabbies, who praise the tuna salad. Upstairs is Russian Bookstore No. 21.

172 (corner): Lucky Brand Blue Jeans. Formerly Mom's Cigars, complete with wooden Indians.

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Flatiron Building

175 (block): Built 1903; originally called Fuller Building, but the nickname was too appropriate. Traditional publishing center, still home to St. Martin's Press and Tor Books. In 1910s, it housed the Socialist Labor Party, the ancestor of most U.S. left parties. Loiterers at 23rd Street hoping tricky Flatiron winds would expose women's ankles were shooed by one Officer Kane, supposedly originating the expression "23 Skidoo."

The Flatiron features in the movie Spider-Man as the office of the Daily Bugle. Jimmy Stewart and Kim Novak are teleported to the roof in Bell, Book and Candle.

The St. Germain Hotel, previously on this site, is remembered as the location of the first electric sign-- advertising houses in Manhattan Beach, Long Island.







W <===             22ND STREET             ===> E

West:

Sohmer Piano Building

170 (corner): Zales jewelry is on ground floor of this 1898 building, designed by Robert Maynicke, noted for its gilded rooftop dome. Was a piano showroom; now houses publishing and design companies.












168: BCBG Max Azaria

166: Building with Eileen Fisher clothing is heavily detailed.

164: American Institute of Graphic Arts; there's often an exhibit here on typography or the like.

162 (corner): Bank building with roaring lions near cornice is on the site of the Union Club, where New York Herald heir James Gordon Bennett Jr. was horsewhipped on the front steps by Frederick May, Bennett's fiancee's brother, after Bennett urinated in the May's fireplace during a New Year's Day celebration. The disreputable Bennett fled to Paris, where he founded the Paris Herald. Moe Ginsburg suits used to be here.

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Albert Building

Corner (935-939 Broadway):

The building that houses Renaissance Hardware was built in 1861-62 as the Glenham Hotel by architect Griffith Thomas. Also known as the Albert or Mortimer Building. According to City Reads, this building once housed the saloon of Dr. Jerry Thomas, master mixologist (for whom the Tom and Jerry was named). Cornelius Vanderbilt Jr., son of the Commodore, shot himself here on April 2, 1882, after a night of drinking and gambling.

The long-stopped clock on this corner inspired the They Might Be Giants song "Four of Two"-- though it runs now.

Rapaport House

155: Home to United Synagogue of Conservative Judaism since 1974. Built for Charles Scribner's Sons in 1894 (note "S" on balcony), publishers of Henry James, Edith Wharton, Hemingway, Fitzgerald, Thomas Wolfe, R.L. Stevenson, Kipling et al. Designed by Ernest Flagg, Scribner's brother-in-law, in Beaux Arts style.

149 (corner): Ann Taylor is on site of the Lotos Club, an organization for "journalists, artists and members of the musical and dramatic professions, and representatives, amateurs and friends of literature, science and fine arts." The club threw dinners for Gilbert and Sullivan when they were in the city in 1879, and for Henry Morton Stanley in honor of his finding Dr. Livingstone.


W <===             21ST STREET             ===> E

West:

Mohawk Building

160 (corner): Club Monaco clothing is on ground floor of this building that originally housed architects; Stanford White and his firm McKim, Mead and White occupied the 5th floor from 1895-1913.

158: Site of Mason & Hamlin Hall, a concert and recital venue.

Presbyterian Building

156 (corner): Building with magnificent arched entrance was built in 1895 (Rowe & Baker, architects) as part of the "Paternoster Row" of religious publishers between 16th and 23rd streets. House Beautiful used to have its offices here. The corner was previously 1 W. 20th Street, where McKim, Mead and White had their offices before moving to the Mohawk.

154: Site of the house of Robert L. Stuart, sugar refiner, art collector and bibliophile. As president of the American Museum of Natural History (1872-81), he oversaw the construction of its current building.

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East:

Merchants Central Building

141 (corner): This 1897-1900 layer cake of a building was the Merchants Bank of New York (now a Valley National branch); don't miss the dome on the roof. (It was designed by Robert Maynicke, who also put the dome on the Sohmer Piano Building.) On the site of the South Dutch Reformed Church (1849-90).

139: The Corndiac building recently lost its obscure nameplate. Houses Thor Equities.

137: Otto Tootsi Plohound, footwear for the ultra-hip. The 12-story building is by Robert Maynicke.

On this block was the source of Minetta Creek, which used to run through Greenwich Village and still flows underground.




135 (corner): Now that the Body Shop is renouncing its founder's politics, it's even more annoying. Nice pink brick.


W <===             20TH STREET             ===> E

West:

Methodist Book Concern

150 (corner): Lenscrafters, Skechers are in another Paternoster Row building, a stunning brick structure put up in 1890; note "M.B.C." on cornice.

146: Bravo Pizza. If I put up a building that looked like this next to the Methodist Book Concern, I would cry myself to sleep at night.

144: Was The Gauntlet, the U.S.'s oldest body piercing establishment; helped spark the "Modern Primitive" trend. Ground floor is the Fifth Avenue Epicure. Note address on facade.

142 (corner): American Apparel, softcore fashion, was Weiss & Mahoney, "the Peaceful Army & Navy Store."

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East:

133 (corner): Sisley, Italian women's casualwear.

129: A/X, Armani Exchange

125: Intermix; trendy store is a favorite with the Sex and the City crowd.










119 (corner): Sephora


W <===             19TH STREET             ===> E

West:

140 (corner): Aveda is in a 12-story building from 1902.

138: Food Depot (formerly Lucky Deli) is at the address of Chopsticks, a noted Korean brothel in the 1970s. Also Artista, a salon where the Sex and the City gang got their nails done.

136: White House/Black Market is the Andrews Coffee Shop, heavily redesigned.

134: Innovation Lugguge & Travelware












130 (corner): Express is on site of Chickering Hall, auditorium built by the Chickering Piano Company, site of lectures by Oscar Wilde and Matthew Arnold. Here Alexander Graham Bell made the first interstate telephone call in 1877--to New Brunswick, New Jersey. Today, the offices of Interbrand are here--consultants to everyone from Wal-Mart to Oxfam.

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East:

115 (corner): Haunted house-looking building with Nine West and Victoria's Secret is the former Arnold Constable department store, which moved to Ladies Mile in 1867 and grew to take up most of its block; this annex, designed by William Schickel, seems to have been built in 1877. Several architects had offices here, including Schickel himself, Cass Gilbert and Henry Bacon (who designed the Lincoln Memorial).

Founded by Aaron Arnold in 1825 (son-in-law James Constable became a partner in 1837), the store offered "Everything From Cradle to Grave." Mary Todd Lincoln was a frequent customer, along with Carnegies, Rockefellers and Morgans.

Earlier on this corner, from 1852-75, was the 5th Avenue Presbyterian Church, designed by religious architect Leopold Eidlitz. In 1875 it was dismantled and moved to 57th Street.

111 (corner): Swedish retailer H & M (formerly Daffy's 5th Avenue) is in a stately 13-story building from 1895 designed by William Schickel & Company (who also did the Stuyvesant Polyclinic). Built on the site of financier August Belmont Jr.'s mansion, the first in the city to have a private ballroom. Belmont helped underwrite NY subway construction, and owned his own private subway car; his hobby was horse-racing--he bred Man o' War--and the Belmont Stakes are named for him.


W <===             18TH STREET             ===> E

Gas street lights, introduced in New York in 1823, line 5th Avenue up to this intersection by 1847.

West:

126 (corner): Gap Kids is in a 15-story Robert Maynicke building completed in 1900. Built on the site of the Hotel de Logerot, owned by Richard de Logerot, the Marquis de Croisic.

122: Above the Gap are the world headquarters of Barnes & Noble. Strange art in the vestibule.

120 (corner): Gap Body.

118: Address of the JL Mott Iron Works, which entered art history when Marcel Duchamp bought a urinal here and renamed it Fountain, launching the idea that anything could be art.

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East:

105 (corner): Barnes & Noble; the chain started this branch in 1932, and it became the corporate flagship. The mansion of steamship tycoon Marshall O. Roberts used to be here; he owned the painting Washington Crossing the Delaware.

103: Juicy Couture (formerly Fossil) is in the Pierrepont building. This was the site of the Art Students League's first school, opened in 1875.

101: Zara

97 (corner): Aldo


W <===             17TH STREET             ===> E

West:

114 (corner): Banana Republic is on the site of the home of Ambrose Kingsland, mayor and sperm-oil merchant. Later the offices of Oxford University Press.

Judge Building

110 (corner): Esprit (formerly Emporio Armani) is on the ground floor of a striking, large-arched McKim, Mead and White building that was built in 1888 to house Judge, a sophisticated, pro-Republican humor magazine founded by ex-staffers of Puck. The building replaced the Athenaeum Club.

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East:

95 (corner): Kenneth Cole, the intellectual's shoe store.

91: J. Crew is in an 1894 building with sexy caryatids.

87-89: Holds Banana Republic Women and a ghostly sign for Spiegel & Strauss.

85 (corner): Anthropologie was B. Shackman Favors & Novelties. On site of the home of Levi Parson Morton (from 1886-88), a banker and congressmember who became vice president under Benjamin Harrison.


W <===             16TH STREET             ===> E

West:

108 (corner): An odd post-modern building designed by Rothzeid, Kaiserman, Thompson & Bee and opened in 1986. Paul Smith, British fashion, has "best guy shopping," according to Time Out New York--they mean rich guys.

104: Arden B clothing is at the address where Margaret Sanger published the Birth Control Review, and later opened a contraceptive clinic, which eventually grew into Planned Parenthood.

102: Mesa Grill, owned by celebrity chef Bobby Flay.

100 (corner): On the corner where Bebe clothing store now is, anarchist publisher Carlo Tresca was assassinated by future Mob boss Carmine Galente in 1943. In the 1980s there was a short-lived reincarnation of the Peppermint Lounge here, which closed after mob connections were alleged.

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East:

81: Was Behr Hall, a concert space

79 (corner): A 16-story building by Albert S. Gottlieb, completed 1907, houses Coach, Artistic Tile, etc. Built on the site of Mayor George Opdyke's house; draft rioters tried to burn it down twice in 1863.

77: The building above Regale Deli is strikingly ugly.







73 (corner): Designed by Samuel Sass and completed 1907, features a large central arch


W <===             15TH STREET             ===> E

West:

98: The site of the Cosmos Club, a club for fans of Humboldt's Cosmos, dedicated to the promotion of knowledge.

96 (corner): To call this architecture "