New York Songlines: 6th Avenue

AKA The Avenue of the Americas

W 59th | W 58th | W 57th | W 56th | W 55th | W 54th | W 53rd | W 52nd | W 51st | W 50th | W 49th | W 48th | W 47th | W 46th | W 45th | W 44th | W 43rd | W 42nd | W 41st | W 40th | W 39th | W 38th | W 37th | W 36th | W 35th | W 34th/Broadway | W 33rd | W 32nd | W 31st | W 30th |
W 29th | W 28th | W 27th | W 26th | W. 25th | W 24th | W. 23rd | W 22nd | W 21st | W 20th |
W 19th | W. 18th | W 17th | W 16th | W 15th | W 14th | W 13th | W 12th | W 11th | W 10th |
W 9th | Greenwich Ave | W 8th | Waverly Place | Washington Place | W 4th | W 3rd |
Minetta Lane | Minetta Street | Bleecker St | W Houston |

When I first came to New York in 1985, my uncle gave me two pieces of good advice: Don't play Three-Card Monte and don't call it Avenue of the Americas.

6th Avenue was given that sobriquet in 1945 by Mayor Fiorello La Guardia, in honor of the newly formed Organization of American States (and to shake the bad connotation Sixth Avenue, then known as a failed shopping district, had acquired). But the name didn't take; New Yorkers still call it by its proper numbered name.



West:

Central Park

An 853-acre expanse of green in the middle of Manhattan, its 25 million annual visitors make it the most visited public park in the world. Responding to calls from civic leaders like William Cullen Bryant, the city acquired the land in 1853 and held a design contest in 1857, choosing the Greensward Plan of Frederick Law Olmstead and Calvert Vaux (rhymes with "Walks"). After the moving of 3 million tons of earth and the planting of 270,000 trees and shrubs, the park--almost entirely landscaped, despite its naturalistic appearance--opened to visitors in 1859 (though not officially completed until 1873).

This entrance was dubbed the Artists' Gate by the Central Park commissioners in 1862, but like most of the other entrances wasn't marked until 1999. The plaza here--which is the top of the Avenue of the Americas--features statues of Latin American liberators.

Jose Marti, a journalist and poet (he wrote the words to "Guantanamera"), was killed fighting for Cuban independence in 1895; he had spent the previous three years in exile in New York. He's a hero to both pro- and anti-Castro Cubans; this statue was given to the city by the Castro government in 1965, after having been donated for that purpose by the sculptor, Anna Vaughn Hyatt Huntington. It depicts Marti being fatally wounded.

Jose San Martin was a general who led the rebellion against Spain in Argentina, Chile and Peru. This sculpture is a gift from the city of Buenos Aires, a smaller-scale copy of the 1862 statue by Louis Joseph Daumas that presides over that city's Plaza de San Martin. It was installed here in 1951 after we sent Buenos Aires a statue of George Washington.

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A short ways into the park here is the Cop Cot, a rustic wooden shelter (of sorts--it lacks an actual roof). Not intended as a place for police to sleep, its name means "Hilltop Cottage" in Old English.



















Simon Bolivar, on the other side of the plaza, liberated Colombia, Venezuela, Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia (which was named in his honor). The statue by Sally James Farnham was a gift from Venezuela installed in the park in 1921 and rededicated here in 1951 to celebrate the renaming of the Avenue.

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West:

The Trump Parc

Block (100-106 CPS): When it was the Barbizon Plaza Hotel, it was home to writer Anais Nin in 1934-35; she called it the Hotel Chaotica. Frida Kahlo stayed here in 1931, and felt she was badly treated. Mobster Lucky Luciano lived here in the 1920s. Bought by Donald Trump in 1988 and redesigned down to the frame, it became home to such celebrities as O.J. Simpson, LaToya Jackson, Larry Hagman ("J.R. Ewing") and Morton Downey Jr. Recognizable by the gilded teeth on the tower on top.












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Ritz-Carlton Hotel

Corner (50 CPS): This is the third incarnation of the luxury hotel in Midtown Manhattan, and the second on Central Park South. It used to be the San-Moritz hotel, known as "the biggest little hotel in town." In 1935, it became home to Kurt Weill and Lotte Lenya, who were fleeing Nazi Germany. Later, in 1941, artist Marc Chagall came here after leaving Nazi-occupied France. It has also been home to columnist Walter Winchell and Yankee star Mickey Mantle. Winchell, who supposedly lived here rent free in return for plugging the hotel in his column, threatened to leave if management allowed gangster Lucky Luciano to live here; they didn't.

The house restaurant is BLT Market, considered by TONY to be the jewel in the crown of Laurent Tourondel's culinary empire.

Corner (57 W 58th): The Coronet is an 11-story red-brick apartment building from 1901, condoized in 1976. Time has not been particularly kind to it. Used to house the Manhattan Ocean Club, noted seafood restaurant.

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This is the intersection where Ratso Rizzo says, "I'm walking here!"

West:

Windsor Park

Corner (100 W 58th): Architect-for-billionaires Charles Gwathmey designed the 2004 conversion of the former Helmsley Windsor Hotel into luxury housing-- including adding a $16 million penthouse to the roof. The building was put up as a co-op by Rosario Candela in the 1920s. Comedian Fred Allen lived here in the 1930s and '40s; Angela Lansbury has lived here more recently.

1409: Jekyll & Hyde Club, audioanimatronic dining

Buckingham Hotel

Corner (101 W 57th): Opened in 1929, this hotel has been home to numerous artists and musicians, including Ignace Paderewski, who lived here from 1929 until his death in 1941. Author Damon Runyon lived here in 1944-46, the last years of his life.

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Corner (68 W 58th): Actress Gloria Swanson lived in this building, then the Park Chambers Hotel, from 1925 until the early 1930s. On the ground floor now is the Kobe Club, restaurant featuring super-expensive Japanese beef and 2,000 samurai swords dangling from the ceiling in a dining room that looks like "Akira Kurosawa hired the Marquis de Sade as an interior decorator" (New York Times). The space used to be Mix, also by restauranteur Jeffrey Chodorow.



Corner (57 W 57th): Cornerstone of Medical Arts Center, a rehab clinic, is in a 1928 gilt-trimmed office building. Previously at this address was a rundown three-story brick building where Dorothy Parker lived in the early 1920s when her marriage was breaking up.

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West:

1381 (block): Carnegie House, 21-story grey-brick apartment building that went up in 1962--named for Carnegie Hall, a longish block away. Ballerina Alexandra Danilova lived here.




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1380 (block): Hemisphere House, a 20-story white-brick apartment building put up in 1968. Author Jerzy Kosinski killed himself here on May 3, 1991. On the ground floor are Rue 57 Brasserie, Carnegie Luggage.



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1375: Pazza Notte, Italian

1371: Flowers on the Avenue

1369: Vitamin Muse

1367: 55 Digital

1365: Fromex Photo System

1363: World of Nuts & Ice Cream

1361 (corner): Astro Restaurant, diner. Singer Tony Bennett has lived in this building.

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1366: Ernest Klein & Company International Supermarket





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Burlington House

Block (120 W 55th): A 50-story office tower completed 1969, named for Burlington Industries, a fabric maker that ceased operations in 2004. The building is now formally the Alliance Capital Building, after Alliance took over Mastercard's former space here in 1994. Noted for the Dandelion Fountain out front.

Site of Old Zeigfeld Theatre

1341 (corner): Impressario Florenz Zeigfeld took his Follies here in 1927, to a sumptuous Art Deco house designed by Thomas W. Lamb and bankrolled by William Randolph Hearst. Later that year, the classic musical Show Boat premiered here. During the Depression, it was Loew's Zeigfeld, a movie palace. From 1955 to 1963, NBC used it as a TV studio. Briefly a live theater again, it was torn down in 1966.

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MGM Building

1350 (corner): Now known as the Men's Apparel Building, a 35-story glass office tower from 1966 designed by WTC architects Emery Roth & Sons. Served as New York headquarters for the classic film studio. It also appeared as the United Broadcasting System studios in Network.

Warwick Hotel

1340 (corner): Built in 1926 by William Randolph Hearst with a specially designed floor for his mistress, Marion Davies. A favorite of show business sorts, the hotel boasts James Dean, Elvis Presley, Elizabeth Taylor and Jane Russell as having been frequent guests. Cary Grant lived here for 12 years; The Beatles stayed here when they first came to the States.

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New York Hilton

1335 (block): A 49-story slab emerging from a boxy base, completed 1963 to Harrison & Abramowitz' design. Philip Pavia's Ides of March, an abstract sculpture group, was in front here until 1988, when it moved to the Hippodrome.

The climax of the film Michael Clayton was shot here.

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Financial Times Building

1330 (block): A 41-story completed in 1965 and designed by Emery Roth & Sons. Originally built for ABC, it became ITT's headquarters after the conglomerate bought the network. It's now the U.S. base of the British business paper.




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Credit Lyonnais Building

1301 (block): A 1964 office tower, 45 stories designed by Shreve, Lamb & Harmon Associates; originally known as the J. C. Penney Building. Serves as headquarters for the Pricewaterhouse Coopers accounting firm. Noted for Jim Dine's gargantuan green pastiches of the Venus de Milo in its plaza. The film Michael Clayton used the offices of the law firm Dewey & LeBoeuf here for some of the interior shots.

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Black Rock

Block (51 W 52nd): The 38-story headquarters of the CBS network, built in 1965 as the only skyscraper designed by Finnish-born Eero Saarinen. The nickname comes from the imposing, triangular black granite pillars that run the length of the building. It was the first New York highrise to have a reinforced concrete (rather than steel) frame.


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UBS Building

1285 (block): A 42-floor office tower from 1960, designed by Skidmore, Owings & Merrill. Built for Equitable Life; the brockerage firm Paine Webber moved here in 1985, and merged with the Swiss bank UBS in 2000.





















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Sperry-Rand Building

1290 (block): A 43-story office tower designed by Emery Roth & Sons and built by the Uris brothers in 1961-62.

On Seinfeld, George Constanza claims that the 14th floor of this building has the best restroom in the vicinity of 54th and Sixth.

It was built on the site of the legendary Toots Shor's Restaurant, which opened here in 1940, a hangout for athletes, sportswriters and assorted famous people. (When Yogi Berra was introduced to Ernest Hemingway here as "an important writer," Berra reportedly replied, "What paper you with, Ernie?") Shor, a former speakeasy bouncer, left Jackie Gleason on the floor here after winning a drinking contest, ordered an impatient Charlie Chaplin to "be funny for the people for the next 20 minutes," and told Louis B. Mayer that his food was "better'n some of your crummy pictures I stood in line for." He counted both Joe DiMaggio and Chief Justice Earl Warren among his closest friends. He held out against the developers for years, but eventually sold his lease here for $1.5 million in 1959 and moved to 52nd Street.

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West:

Time & Life Building

Technically part of Rockefeller Center, but not really, this 48-floor tower, completed in 1959, was the first building to be added to the complex on the west side of 6th Avenue. Designed by Harrison & Abramowitz, before Harris was added to the name. Time and Life were the flagships of Henry Luce's magazine empire, now part of Time Warner; Time's offices are still here. CNN's American Morning had its studios on the ground floor from 2002-06; SportsNet New York is now based there.

The blue metal sculpture in front is Cubed Curve, by William Crovello.

















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Rockefeller Center

The land that is now Rockefeller Center was once the Elgin Botanic Garden, 20 acres of mainly medicinal herbs established by Dr. David Hosack, the physician who attended Alexander Hamilton after his fatal duel with Aaron Burr. The Lewis and Clark expedition sent plants here for identification.

The garden was sold to the state in 1810, which granted it to Columbia University, which allowed the garden to be developed. In 1929, the land was leased to John D. Rockefeller, who built on it an Art Deco masterpiece that is one of New York City's crowning architectural achievements.

1270: The RKO Building (now officially the Amax Building) was completed in 1932.

Radio City Music Hall

1260 (corner): When it opened in 1932, this auditorium's 6,200 seats made it the largest in the world. Impressario Sam "Roxy" Rothafel intended it to be a live venue, but it soon became a cinema featuring a live pre-show showcasing precision dancers--originally the Roxyettes, now the world-famous Rockettes.

The Woody Allen character comes here in Radio Days; Daddy Warbucks buys out a whole show here in Annie.

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Exxon Bulding

1251 (block):

Another western addition to Rockefeller Center, this was built in 1971 to a Harrison, Abramowitz & Harris design. Exxon used to be Esso, which was Standard Oil of New Jersey ("S.O."), part of the breakup of the Rockefellers' Standard Oil Company. Exxon is now merged with Mobil, formerly Socony--Standard Oil Co. of New York.



































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RCA Building

30 Rockefeller Plaza (block): The crown jewel of Rockefeller Center, completed in 1933, this 70-story limestone masterpiece is attributed mainly to Raymond Hood. Diego Rivera's mural, Man at Crossroads Looking With Hope and High Vision to the Choosing of a New and Better Future, was painted over by Nelson Rockefeller when Rivera refused to take Lenin out of the artwork. The murals visible today are Jose Maria Sert's American Progress and Time. Above the main entrance is Lee Lawrie's relief sculpture Genius.

The famous Rainbow Room is on the 65th floor, which opened in 1934 as a nightspot for Rockefellers, Astors and Morgans. Entertainment was provided by the likes of Mary Martin, Edgar Bergen and Charlie McCarthy, Comden and Green, and Judy Holliday. It's touted as the "most perfect room in New York."

The "Top of the Rock," the recently reopened rooftop observatory, is a great alternative to the Empire State Building-- the sailors go there in the movie On the Town.

RCA was the Radio Corporation of America, formed in 1919 as a joint subsidiary of General Electric and AT&T; both NBC and ABC were initially launched by RCA. When GE reacquired RCA in 1986, GE CEO Jack Welch insisted on renaming the RCA Building the GE Building. Jack Welch is a poor role model for America's children.

NBC's main New York studios are located in this building, where shows like NBC Nightly News, Saturday Night Live and Late Night With Conan O'Brien are taped; The Tonight Show used to broadcast from here in the Jack Paar/early Johnny Carson days. Arturo Toscanini used to broadcast from the same studio that today houses SNL.

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McGraw Hill Bulding

1221 (block): Considered the best of the Harrison, Abromowitz & Harris additions to Rockefeller Center, it went up in 1972 to house the publishing company. McGraw Publishing, founded in 1899, merged with Hill Publishing in 1909. The company also owns Standard & Poor.




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Simon and Schuster Bulding

1230 (block): Built in 1940 as the U.S. Rubber Building, this marks the southern end of the original Rockefeller Center project. Simon & Schuster, founded in 1924 and perhaps most notable as the parent company of Pocket Books, is now part of Viacom.




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Celanese Building

1211 (block): This 1973 Harrison, Abramowitz & Harris building in the southernmost of the Rockefeller addition skyscrapers. It's named for a chemical company, but it's best known as the U.S. headquarters of Rupert Murdoch's News Corporation; it's where Fox News, the New York Post and Murdoch himself have their main offices.



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Diamond District

1200 (corner): Diamond City marks the start of a block-long row of diamond businesses along 47th Street, mostly owned by Orthodox Jews. Marathon Man has a famous scene set here.

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1185 (block): The 40-story Stevens Tower is a 1971 work of Emery Roth & Sons. The J.P. Stevens Company, founded in 1813 to make fabric during the War of 1812, is now part of WestPoint Stevens.






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1180 (corner): This is the address of Kenner, Bach & Ledeen, the title character's law firm in the film Michael Clayton.

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1177 (block): Americas Tower, a 50-story post-modern office building with an Art Deco style, was started in 1988 but not completed until 1994--the delay in part caused by litigation around the estate of Ferdinand Marcos, who was one of the project's backers.




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Corner: The site of the Columbia Hotel, where poet Delmore Schwartz died from a heart attack on July 11, 1966, at the age of 52.







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1155 (block): This 1984 design by Emery Roth & Sons features 40 stories of polished black granite.








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International Center for Photography

A school and museum founded in 1974 in honor of Robert Capa. This site was an expansion begun in 1989 and became the main headquarters in 1999.

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Hippodrome

Block: "I wanna see the Hippodrome," insists the sailor in On the Town, referring to the namesake predecessor on this site, an enormous auditorium (5,697 seats) designed for spectaculars by the team that developed Coney Island's Luna Park. Open from 1905 until 1939, it saw the American debut of Cary Grant on August 8, 1920. It's said that the Algonquin Roundtable formed when Robert Sherwood, who worked at Vanity Fair, was intimidated by the midgets at the Hippodrome, and so insisted that his coworkers Dorothy Parker and Robert Benchley eat lunch with him every day.

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West:

Corner: Was Hanover House, a seedy hotel where Woody Guthrie wrote "This Land Is Your Land" on February 23, 1940.


1113: City Jeans



1101 (corner): Pronto Pizza; chain

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Grace Plaza

An entrance plaza to the Grace Building (the building with the curved facade facing Bryant Park). The pavilion in the plaza is the entrance to the School of the International Center of Photography.


1100 (corner): Bryant Park Building, built c. 1912, houses the offices of HBO.

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Verizon Building

1095 (block): This white marble/black glass tower, designed by Kahn & Jacobs, was built in 1974 by AT&T as the New York Telephone Company Building; a break-up, a merger and a name-change later, it's now Verizon's.












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1079 (corner): Training Camp Footwear; a mini-chain for sneaker mavens.




1071: Original Penguin; retro-chic label











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Bryant Park

This area was set aside as early as 1686 for public use; from 1823 to 1840, like many of Manhattan's parks, it was used as a pauper's graveyard. In 1842, the Croton Reservoir was built on the east side of the space, where the New York Public Library is now, and the remaining land became known as Reservoir Square.

The Crystal Palace was built on the site in 1853, a marvelous seven-story exhibition space made of glass and cast iron that housed America's first world's fair before burning down spectacularly on October 5, 1858.

After serving as a parade ground for Union troops during the Civil War, Reservoir Square was designated a park in 1871, and was renamed in 1884 for William Cullen Bryant, poet, lawyer, New York Post editor, abolitionist and park advocate. It was not much of a park, though, until it was landscaped in French garden style in the 1930s, the object of a contest for unemployed architects.

By the 1970s, the park had become chiefly known as a drug market (dubbed "Needle Park"), but since a re-landscaping in 1992 occasioned by the creation of underground stacks for the library, it's become a highly valued urban space, with 2,000 chairs for urbanites to relax on.

It's the venue for popular outdoor movies in the summer. A plan to use trained falcons to control the pigeons was scuttled in 2003 when one attacked a dachshund.

Sculptures in the park include an imposing Bryant, Goethe, Gertrude Stein, copper maganate and YMCA founder William Dodge (by John Quincy Adams Ward; originally in Herald Square) and Brazilian liberator Jose de Andrada --not to mention Big Crinkly by Alexander Calder.


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1045 (corner): Milliken & Company Building; offices for the textile giant, which made New York its headquarters in 1868. CEO Roger Milliken is Patrick Buchanan's chief financial backer. The modernist building is by James D. Stephen, who also designed the pagoda-shaped Chinese Merchant's Building in Chinatown.

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Bryant Park Studios

Corner (80 W 40th): This 1901 landmark was designed (as the Beaux Arts Studios) by Charles Alonzo Rich for Colonel Abraham A. Anderson, a gentleman portraitist who had returned from a stay in Paris with that city's enthusiasm for north light. A great many artists have lived and/or worked here, including photographer Edward Steichen; painters Winslow Homer, William Merritt Chase and Fernand Leger; and print-maker Kurt Seligmann. On the ground floor is the Park Side Cafe & Market.

1040 (corner): Valley National Bank


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1025: Millinery Center Synagogue, serving the spiritual needs of the Garment District since 1948.



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1036: Penguini Men's Fashion




1026: New York Beads



1020 (corner): Elle Beads


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1011: Wok 'N' Roll, Chinese




1001 (corner): North Fork Bank; Orchid Cafe.

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1010 (corner): The Atlas, a 46-storey residential tower built 2002.

1008: M&J Trimmings, since 1936




1000 (corner): M&J Buttons; formerly Hersh Sixth Avenue Button, sewing-supply mecca. Also Israeli Falafel Pizza.


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West:

995A: Shoes Are Hot

989: Antique & Art Center

Haier Building

Corner (1352-1362 Broadway): Built 1922-24 for the Greenwich Savings Bank and later used by Republic National Bank, this striking landmark surrounded by Corinthian columns is now the New York headquarters of the Haier Group, China's leading refrigerator manufacturer. Inside is Gotham Hall, a dramatic domed space often used for fashion shows.

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980-990 (block): The Vogue, 25-floor apartment building from 1987.












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Corner (1350 Broadway): Herald Square Building contains an HSBC bank. The entire block was once the site of the New York Herald Building, a two-story Venetian palace built in 1893 by McKim, Mead and White and housing the paper that now lives on only in the International Herald Tribune. Demolished 1921, but its name remains in the square to its south.


The southern end of the block is a Florsheim shoe outlet.

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968: There was an Automat here in the late 1960s/early 1970s.

966: Metropolitan Impex; trimmings and bridals




Corner: Atlantic Bank of New York


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Herald Square

As in, "Remember me at..." Named for the New York Herald, the newspaper founded by James Gordon Bennett whose offices were directly to the north of this triangle. Noted for its racist and anti-Semitic politics, the paper introduced such features as the gossip column and Wall Street coverage. Later merged with the New York Tribune; the International Herald-Tribune is the surviving relic.

The clock and statuary, crafted in 1895 by Jean-Antonie Carles, are from the old Herald building; the goddess is Minerva, complete with owls, and the bellringers, which swing their hammers on the hour, are nicknamed Stuff and Guff.

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Corner: La Villa Pizza

950: U.S. headquarters of the Paris-based advertising conglomerate Publicis, which owns Leo Burnett and Saatchi & Saatchi.








Corner (1328 Broadway): The Victoria's Secret on this corner is the lingerie giant's new flagship store. In the same building is Swedish fasion discounter H&M.


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West:

Herald Center

Built for Saks & Company in 1901-02, as shopping moved to this neighborhood to take advantage of the new rail hubs. In 1966, after the area's appeal had faded, it became Korvette's. Rebuilt in 1982-85 as a mall with a glass elevator on the corner. Features a Fleet Bank, a Modell's Sports and a Daffy's clothing store on the Broadway side.

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Herald Towers

AKA McAlpin House; built as the Hotel McAlpin in 1913, which was noted for its "silent floor" for the nocturnal. Converted to apartments in 1979; the murals of New York Harbor from the hotel's Marine Grill were removed and installed in the Fulton Street subway station. Claims the dubious distinction of housing the highest-grossing Gap outlet in the country.


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Manhattan Mall

Block (1275 Broadway): Used to be Gimbel's department store, Macy's chief rival ("Does Macy's tell Gimbel's?") which claimed to have invented the bargain basement. Building designed by Daniel Burnham, of Flatiron fame, and built 1908-12; it was purposely utilitarian and undecorated. The first ballpoint pens were sold here in 1945-- selling 10,000 on the first day at $12.50 each. Converted to a glassed-in post-modern mall in 1987-89.

This block was formerly the site of a theater that was variously called the Manhattan, Eagle or Standard; in 1879, the official New York premiere of Gilbert & Sullivan's H.M.S. Pinafore was held here.

A skyway connects this building to Weber's, a discount store on 32nd Street, which used to be a Gimbels annex; built in 1925, it was designed by Shreve & Lamb, the same company that did the Empire State Building.

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Greeley Square

This triangular square is named for Horace Greeley, the founder of the New York Tribune. Though chiefly remembered as the guy who said "Go west, young man" (which was not actually his line), Greeley was actually one of the most influential journalists in American history. An advocate of social reform (Karl Marx was a European correspodent), Greeley supported abolition, worker's rights and (yes) Western settlement. As a reporter covering Congress in 1855, he was given a concussion by the cane of pro-slavery House Speaker Albert Rust. He helped found the Republican Party and was instrumental in making Abraham Lincoln the 1860 candidate. Surprisingly, he was the 1872 Democratic candidate for president; he was trounced by U.S. Grant and died a month later.

The statue of Greeley in a chair is an 1890 work by Alexander Doyle. The square was dedicated in 1894.



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West:

Corner: American Burger & Co., tasty

887: S&A Stores, noted for linen bargains. "Money refunded within 25 days" is not a reassuring slogan.

885: Rainbow Camera Inc.

879: Don Don Ya Japanese Rice Bowl

875 (corner): Greeley Square Building; includes Global 2000 Camera & Computer, Pret a Manger ("ready to eat") sandwich chain.

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894 (corner): Cosmos

890: Olden Camera & Lens Co.; Mr. Cap

884: Earrings Plaza, "world's largest selection of earrings."

882: Full Line Collection Fashion Jewelry and Accessories.

876 (corner): Liberty Bagel Deli. And isn't that what New York is all about?


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West:

873 (corner): Was Close Out Zone, and before that The Wiz, ex-discount electronics chain. This old cast-iron retail building has been bought by Joseph Chetrit, owner of the Sears Tower, who's expected to tear it down. It's likely, in fact, that the whole block here is going to be demolished, no doubt for another of the bland highrises that have been sprouting along 6th Avenue. (This is the northernmost edge of the rezoning.) It's a shame that an attractive made-for-retail building like this one can't find a profitable use.

865: The northernmost of four six-story tenements in the middle of the block, dating to c. 1922.

863: Sundance Corporate Catering is one

861: Western Union 6th Avenue Discount

859: Galaxy Army & Navy

855 (corner): Broadway National Bank is in a 1949 building that was reclad not long ago with wraparound black windows.

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East:

874 (corner): Tony's Pizza & Restaurant









860: New Company Wholesale. This marks the beginning of the Wholesale District, many small stores offering imported apparel, gadgets and trinkets.

In the Tenderloin era, this was the site of the Star & Garter, considered a classy joint. Star bartender Billy Patterson, who boasted of not having an enemy in the world, was attacked with a slingshot one day leaving work--giving rise to the catchphrase, "Who struck Billy Patterson?"

856 (corner): Novelty Candy Store


W <===             WEST 30TH STREET             ===> E

West:

851 (corner): Was Tootsies sock outlet, part of a strip-mall like row of undistinguished retail outlets. All torn down in 2007 for a large construction project.

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838: Yung Kee Trading, a largish wholesaler. Building has elaborate cornice.

836 (corner): Pink Stone General Merchandise; Boricua City, Puerto Rico-related products.


W <===             WEST 29TH STREET             ===> E

West:








829: X Tensions Wholesale Wigs

823: Goodland Martial Arts Supply. Sign in window: "All Knives and Swords 20 Percent Off."

821: From 1954 to 1965, this building housed the Jazz Loft, an after-hours hangout for musicians like Thelonious Monk, Miles Davis and Charles Mingus.

817 (corner): The lot that used to hold City Plants & Gardens is now the future site of Remy, a futuristic residential high-rise designed by Costas Kondylis--the only really original project to come out of the Sixth Avenue condo tower boom.

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Corner: This was (apparently) the site of The Haymarket, the Tenderloin's most famous dance hall. A venue for "respectable vice," the dancers here would give private exhibitions of the cancan in curtained booths. O. Henry and Eugene O'Neill both hung out here.

828: Superior Florists is the northernmost outpost of the Flower District.

822: Here was the saloon of Tom "Shang" Draper, described as "the king of New York's underworld," and part of the gang that robbed a record amoung from the Manhattan Savings Institution in 1878. On October 16, 1833, bank robber Johnnie "the Mick" Walsh was shot and wounded here by fellow burglar John Irving, whom Walsh in turn killed-- only to be finished off by Irving's colleague, safecracker Billy Porter.





W <===             WEST 28TH STREET             ===> E

The block of 28th Street east of 6th Avenue to Broadway was Tin Pan Alley, music publishing hub in early 20th Century.

West:

Corner: Note seahorse trim on the fast-food outlet; used to be a branch of Childs, a widespread New York restaurant chain. "Came to New York, repertoire ready/Chekhovs and Shakespeares and Wildes/Now they watch her flipping flapjacks at Childs."-- "What a Waste," Wonderful Town

807: International Garden, part of the Garden District

805: U.S. Evergreen

803: George Rallis Inc. Wholesale Florist

795 (corner): Sheng Po Enterprises, wholesaler

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800: A whole row of 19th-Century buildings was torn down on this block to build The Aston, a luxury high-rise. Above a blocky base, the tower is comparatively stylish, with windows layered like fish scales. Also known as the Archstone Chelsea after being bought by one of the largest apartment management companies in the country.








W <===       WEST 27TH STREET       ===> E

West:

793 (corner): Great H&B Trading Co.; Ho-Ho Chinese Restaurant

777: 777 6th Avenue, another big new highrise apartment building. There is an apartment-suite hotel here called the Oakwood Chelsea.

775 (corner): FAS: Fifth Avenue Style, bargain clothing. The preservation of the human-scaled buildings on either end of this block do a lot for the highrise they bookend.

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The Capitol at Chelsea

Built in 2001 on the site of The Racquet Club, the first sports club in NYC, built 1876. Later the University Athletic Club, finally the Coogan Building. The most interesting structure on this stretch of 6th Avenue, it was slated to be landmarked, but money spoke louder than architecture. Now an unfortunate orangey high-rise with 39 floors. Houses the Phillips Beth Israel School of Nursing.


W <===             WEST 26TH STREET             ===> E

West:

Corner (100 W 26th): Chelsea Tower, new, slightly sinister 34-story highrise.

765: Chris King of Foliage was the southern end of flower district; now merged into Wish 26, a Flower District jazz bar, earlier called Greenroom and Mama Cassies Coffee House.

761 Sixth Avenue Deli & Pizza

757: Rogue, restaurant/bar/lounge opened in 2004.

755 (corner): Serendib Video, porn store. The name is Arabic for Sri Lanka.

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Chelsea Landmark

Block: This 35-story apartment building in 2007 replaced a parking lot with big weekend flea market--featured in the children's book My New York. "Kristen," the professional escort whose assignation with Gov. Elliot Spitzer led to his resignation, lived here at the time the scandal broke.






W <===             WEST 25TH STREET             ===> E

West:

753 (corner): Olympia Deli, where for a time I used to eat almost every day, was torn down for...

Chelsea Stratus

Block: This 2007 high rise boasts of being "Chelsea's tallest condominium" at 40 stories.

Replaced a parking lot that used to have a weekend antique mart.

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Chelsea Vanguard

This 31-story apartment building, put up in 2000, started the high-rise boom along this stretch of 6th Avenue.








W <===             WEST 24TH STREET             ===> E

West:

The Corner

729: Empire City Bagels was Koster & Bial's Concert Hall beer garden annex--known as "The Corner" (written on the corner of building; full name in front at peak). From 1970-2001, it was Billy's Topless, neighborhood institution shut down by Giuliani.

727: 727 Hardware Co. is in a building with attractive brick arches.

725: The building with the Video Video porn store isn't bad either.

Corner: Citibank branch was site of Koster & Bial's Concert Hall (1879-1924), popular vaudeville house featuring Victor Herbert's orchestra. In 1890, Italian sailor Giovanni Succi set a world record by fasting here for 45 days. Earlier was Bryant's Opera House (1870).

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Masonic Hall

Corner (71 W. 23rd): Chase bank is on the ground floor of Masonic Hall, built in 1913 on site of 1875 Masonic Hall. NYC Masons include John Jacob Astor, Theodore Roosevelt, Fiorello LaGuardia and Harry Houdini. Vanguard Studios were located here, where KISS recorded part of their album Chelsea.


W <===             WEST 23RD STREET             ===> E

West:

Corner (100 W 23rd): Originally built as a jeweler's, this small, ornate building was a branch of Riker's Drug Store that resisted a buy-out from Ehrich's, which wanted the whole end of block. Now Your Taste, fancy deli.

699-709: Now Burlington Coat Factory, Staples. Was Ehrich Brothers (1889-1911), bargain store. If the buildings along this stretch look a bit stretched, it's because they were designed to be viewed from the 6th Avenue elevated train (1878-1938).

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The Caroline

Corner: Shopping and apartments built in 2002 on site of Edwin Booth Theater (1869-1883). This was run by and featured New York's most prominent Shakespearean actor--brother of John Wilkes Booth. Sarah Bernhardt made her New York debut here. Later James W. McCreery (1895-1907), "Dean of the Retail Trade." Demolished 1975. A bust of Shakespeare from the old theater can be seen on the new building's west side.


W <===             WEST 22ND STREET             ===> E

West:

Adams Dry Goods

675: Was Adams Dry Goods, upscale shop built in 1900; note "ADG" on arch. Mattel Toys is based here; Barnes & Noble (which has good taste in architecture) was on the ground floor from 1994-2008.






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688: Maffei Pizza; this Sicilian lunch counter is ''culinary nirvana,'' says the the Voice.

682: The eight-story Hall Building is the tallest on the block.

680: Wolf Paper & Twine Co.

678: New York Burger Co., deluxe mini-chain

676 (corner): Markt Belgian seafood was The Tomato, pricey comfort food; formerly Lox Around the Clock, late-night hangout.


W <===             WEST 21ST STREET             ===> E

West:

Hugh O'Neill Building

655: O'Neill, known as "The Fighting Irishman of 6th Avenue," opened his store here in 1887. More working-class than retail neighbors. His name still visible from across street. Was home to Elsevier Science Inc., price-gouging journal publishers. Also Scuba Network, Men's Wearhouse. Gold-domed turrets were restored as part of a 2007 conversion to luxury condos.

















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668: Cafe 21's building says "M. Roman."

666: Deli was built in 1929 for Charles R. Ruegger's Bazar Francais, selling French kitchen wears. The names and date appear on the facade and cornice.

664: Ridgeway Diner was the Lemon-Lime Coffee Shop, post-rave hangout

Avalon

660 (corner): Pricey dance club in a gothic building, opened in 1990 as The Limelight, which was repeatedly closed down over accusations of drug sales, as well as general opposition to nightlife.

Was Church of the Holy Communion (1846), designed by Richard Upjohn, who designed the new Trinity Church about the same time. This church was apparently quite influential, inspiring similar asymmetrical gothic churches across the country. Its first pastor was William Augustus Muhlenberg, whose donated books became the core of the Muhlenberg branch of the NY Public Library on 23rd Street.


W <===             WEST 20TH STREET             ===> E

West:

Simpson-Crawford Building

641: Was Simpson-Crawford store, built 1900 to replace an 1879 version. No price tags here; if you had to ask, you couldn't afford it. Bankrupted 1915. The architecture is more restrained because Simpson-Crawford didn't want the business of elevated train passengers. Houses Apex Technical School, founded in the 1960s.

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650 (corner): This landmarked Beaux Arts building, with beautiful brick pillars and arches, was built as Cammeyer's (1893-1917), a giant shoe store. Later the Audits & Surveys Building; now White Space, luxury condos.


636 (corner): Greek revival building houses Sports Authority.


W <===             WEST 19TH STREET             ===> E

West:

B. Altman Building

621: Was the "Palace of Trade" from 1876 to 1906. Container Store is the latest ground-floor occupant.








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Siegel-Cooper's "Big Store"

616-632: Was Siegel-Cooper, "The Big Store--a City in Itself" (1896-1914). In its day, this glorious retail temple was the center of NYC shopping; "meet me at the fountain" was a catch phrase, referring to the store's centerpiece, which featured Daniel Chester French's statue of The Republic (today in California's Forest Lawn Cemetery). Henry Siegal is credited with introducing the free sample. Now Bed Bath & Beyond, a superstore featured on Sex and the City; Filene's Basement; TJ Max.


W <===             WEST 18TH STREET             ===> E

West:

Corner (100 W. 18th): 100 West 18th is a 2007 luxury condo with an interestingly angled facade.

611: Parade of Shoes and Jam Paper & Envelope were torn down for the condo.

601: New York City Bagel was Pick-a-Bagel

595-597 (corner): It's been a while since they built three-story buildings like this on Sixth Avenue. Features Red Light District, sex shop formerly known as Six Collection; World Famous Pizza, which dropped the "Ray's" from its name.

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610 (corner): Price Building houses one of Old Navy's flagship stores.










Corner (63 W 17th): Lyla, condos built 2003.


W <===             WEST 17TH STREET             ===> E

West:

583: Wai? Cafe, spinoff of East Village restaurant

581: Dave's New York, jeans store in a fancy old building

579: Heaven, gay dance club formerly known as King, is in an old three-story rowhouse





575 (corner): Terry's Gourmet Foods

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New York Foundling Hospital

590 (corner): Founded 1869 on Upper East Side; moved here 1988 to take advantage of lower real estate costs.



576: Wine Gallery has an regrettable wood-shingle facade.

574 (corner): Hollywood Diner; originally Knickerbocker Jewelry Co. (1904).


W <===             WEST 16TH STREET             ===> E

West:

555 (block): Ugly newish apartments








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570 (corner): Blue Valley Deli & Grocery

568: Was New York Photo & Game House






552 (corner): The Left Bank apartments


W <===             WEST 15TH STREET             ===> E

West:

547 (corner): Village Yogurt is in a Greekish building with strong arches.

545: The modestly named OK Family Market

539: Cheesesteak Factory was Mondello Pizza









Corner: This bank branch--now an HSBC-- features vintage murals that can be seen from the street.

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546 (corner): Sixth Avenue Bicycles

538: Knossos custom furniture; I priced a bookshelf here once and it seemed really expensive.

534: When the Gay Liberation Front was formed in July 1969, its weekly meetings were held here, in what was the Alternate U. The GLF represented the radical response to the Stonewall raid, identifying gay power with other struggles like the Black Panther movement and Vietnamese liberation. It's the same building as...

530 (corner): Was The Living Theatre (1956-63), experimental theater co. producing plays by T.S. Eliot, Auden and Gertrude Stein; Martin Sheen's first acting job. Now houses 69 W 14th St. Dance Studios, Capoeira Angola.


W <===             WEST 14TH STREET             ===> E
The boundary between the Village and Chelsea.

This intersection was the site of street battles during the Draft Riots of 1863.

West:

527 (corner): Castle-like building with turret on top houses Brick Oven Pizza 33, local chain,

525: Hanami; the Voice's Robert Sietsema recommends the bento box.

523: Was Century Market, which I had been rooting for because it replaced a corporate burger outlet.







517: Cute old three-story building

515: Xcellent DVD, porn store

513: Fresh Tortillas

509 (corner): Undistinguished 16-story brick apartments

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Maria's Kebab Wagon, a fixture at this corner, is said by the New York Post to have the best street kebab in the city.

526 (block): This handsome building with arched entrances was built by Henry Siegel, co-creator of the Siegel-Cooper store five blocks north. He sold his interest in the "Big Store" in 1904 to make an even bigger department store in the area vacated by Macy's--but the new store went bust and Siegel went to jail in 1914 for defrauding creditors. Now it's a branch of Urban Outfitters, a chain owned by one of the chief financial backers of homophobic Sen. Rick Santorum, which tells you all you need to know about faux hipsterism.

522-524: Site of Capt. Rowland Hussey Macy's original lace and ribbon store. A former whaling captain, Macy had a red star tattoo that is still the store's symbol (and a whale is still used in sale ads). This store grew around the corner before moving uptown; one section of it is still standing on 14th Street.


W <===             WEST 13TH STREET             ===> E

West:

The John Adams

Block (101 W 12th): Twenty-one-story grey brick monstrosity was built in 1963. As vice president in 1789, Adams lived in New York at Varick and Charlton--though the building is said to be named after the architect's children, John and Adam. Why you'd want to put your kids' names on something like this is beyond me.


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502 (corner): Bar Six, hip French-Moroccan

500: Murray's Bagels, one of the few places in town that still gives you a baker's dozen.

496: Notable 1889 terra cotta tenement houses Groom-o-Rama, pet store that always has some great puppies in the window.






W <===             WEST 12TH STREET             ===> E

West:

Corner (100 W 12th): The Mark Twain, a low-rise apartment building c. 1960. Twain lived a few blocks from here when he was a New Yorker.

471: H & H Fruits and Grocery

469: 612 Cafe

467: Barney's Hardware, since 1929

Famous Ray's Pizza

465 (corner): Not the original, but arguably it is the famous one--at least, it's identified as the real one in the movie Elf. Classic slices.

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482 (corner): Joe Junior's, old-school local burger chain

474: Was Game Show, board game store

470: BLT Burger, part of the Bistro Laurent Tourondel family

468: Ricky's, funky local cosmetics chain

464: Charlie Mom, above-average Chinese

Nikos Smoke Shop

462 (corner): One of the city's greatest newsstands.


W <===             WEST 11TH STREET             ===> E

West:

453: Sammy's Noodle Shop, affordable Chinese

Milligan Place

Like Patchin place around the corner, built (in 1848) as housing for workers at 5th Avenue's Brevoort Hotel. Named for 19th Century landowner Samuel Milligan--father-in-law of Aaron Patchin. Eugene O'Neill a resident, as was George Cram Crook, founder of Provincetown Players.

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458 (corner): French Roast, 24-hour bistro in a 1915 apartment building. There used to be a roadhouse here called The Old Grapevine that dated back to 1830; it was a center of neighborhood gossip and was supposedly the origin of the phrase "I heard it through the grapevine." This etymology seems unlikely to me.

450: Jefferson Market, gourmet food; building dated 1891


W <===             WEST 10TH STREET             ===> E

West:

Jefferson Market Library

425: Built 1877 to a Calvert Vaux design. Originally a courthouse and fire tower-- a market and prison, originally connected, now demolished. Courtroom held 1907 trial of millionaire Henry K. Thaw, who shot architect Stanford White, his wife's former lover; insanity plea was successful. Preservationists including e.e. cummings succeeded in turning the abandoned courthouse, slated for demolition, into a branch library in 1967. Sherlock Holmes did his research here in the film They Might Be Giants.

Jefferson Market Garden

Garden on site of former Women's House of Detention. Inmates included black activist Angela Davis, Catholic radical Dorothy Day, labor organizer Elizabeth Gurley Flynn, accused spy Ethel Rosenberg, East Side madame Bea Garfield, Warhol shooter Valerie Solanas, anti-porn feminist Andrea Dworkin and (in an earlier co-ed jail) Mae West. Demolished 1973.

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434: Joffrey Ballet School

432: EJ's Luncheonette, retro diner mini-chain








Citarella

424: Formerly Balducci's gourmet market; started in 1916 as a Brooklyn pushcart, it moved in 1972 to this location. In 1999 family squabbles forced the sale of the business to a D.C.-based chain, which went under when its "Balducci.com" scheme fell victim to the dot.com bust. Now in the space is another local gourmet grocery chain owned by Joe Guerra, who got his start wrapping flounder at the Fulton Fish Market; he has a reputation as a union-buster.


W <===             GREENWICH AVE / WEST 9TH ST             ===> E

West:




























405: SS International, newsstand in business since 1948.

401: Gobo, stylish and tasty vegetarian. The name means "burdock" (a root vegetable) in Japanese.


385 (corner): Waverly Restaurant, classic diner

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418 (corner): Greenwich Brewing Co. pizza; Hasta La Pasta, Italian. This used to be Trude Heller's, a prominent rock club/disco where First Daughter Lynda Bird Johnson was photographed dancing with tanned actor George Hamilton in 1965; the Manhattan Transfer got their start here. Earlier this was Paul and Joe's Bar, a main gay rendezvous in the early 1920s.

C.O. Bigelow's

414: Said to be the nation's oldest pharmacy. The business dates from 1838; the building (the Bigelow Building) dates from 1902; the sign is from the 1930s.

410: LifeThyme Complete Natural Market. In 1987, when this was the Black Rock Cafe, Pietro Alfano was shot and paralyzed here after shopping at Balducci's. Alfano was a defendent in the "Pizza Connection" heroin case.

406: Fat Beats, underground hip-hop mecca since 1994.

Gray's Papaya

402: NYC's finest hot dogs, some say. Tasty and super cheap. Carrie eats them on Sex and the City.

WEST 8TH ST ===> E

Edgar Allen Poe wrote "The Fall of the House of Usher" while living on this block.



W <===             WAVERLY PLACE             ===> E

West:






371: St. Joseph's Church in Greenwich Village. The oldest Catholic church building in Manhattan, built in Greek Revival style in 1834; rebuilt after a fire in 1885.

367: Stern Brothers opened its first store at this former address, selling fabric and lace.

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Corner (88 Waverly): A 14-unit condo was built on this site in 2005, at an address where "ashcan" painter John French Sloan lived. This was also the location of the Fronton, a speakeasy from 1923-26 that was popular with New York Mayor Jimmy Walker and poet Edna St. Vincent Millay. The proprietors, Jack Kriendler and Charlie Berns, moved uptown and founded the "21" Club.

360-374: 1986. "A brilliantly conceived, designed, detailed and executed Post Modern apartment house"--AIA Guide.


            WASHINGTON PLACE            

The first Gay Pride march started here June 28, 1970, commemorating Stonewall's 1st anniversary. It ended with a "gay-in" at Central Park's Sheep Meadow.

West:

361: Baluchi's, local Indian chain

359: Comollo's Restaurant was McBell's bar; in 1922 it was the Red Head speakeasy, which eventually moved uptown and became the 21 Club. Federal-style building dates to 1832.

357: Soto, creatively traditional Japanese; was ONY, "Original Noodle for You."

349: Was Jericho, noted in 1966 for "spectacular" barmaids.

345: Was O'Henry's Steak House

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W <===             WEST 4TH STREET             ===> E

West:

333: Fantasy Party sex shop; Crazy Fantasy Video, porn

Waverly Cinema

323: A landmark in Hair: "I met a boy named Frank Mills...right here in front of the Waverly." Will Smith was arrested here in Six Degrees of Separation. Audience-participation midnight showings of The Rocky Horror Picture Show started here April 1, 1976 and soon spread across the country. A theater since the 1930s, the building was originally an 1807 Dutch Reformed Chuch. Closed in 2001, it's reopening as the Independent Film Channel's IFC Center.

321: Village Shuwarma serves the best shwarma, according to the Village Voice-- no matter how it's spelled.

319: This was the original address of Crawdaddy, the first U.S. rock magazine.

315: In 1879, a children's store called the Lilliputian Bazaar opened here, which eventually grew into the department store Best & Co.

313: Was the English Pub, described in 1966 as having the "usual mixture of renegades, disguised suburban housewives and disguised suburban husbands."

301-303: Sammy's Noodle Shop, the southern expansion


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East:

Golden Swan Gardens

Built on site of the Golden Swan bar, AKA the Hell Hole or the Bucket of Blood; portrayed in Eugene O'Neill's The Iceman Cometh, and in John Sloan's etchings. Demolished 1928.

West 4th Street Courts

AKA The Cage--famous for its top-quality street ball.

WEST 3RD ST ===> E

John Sloan painted the el train turning here.








MINETTA LANE







W <===             BLEECKER STREET             ===> E

West:

Winston Churchill Square

A tiny, beautiful park named for its proximity to Downing Street. Churchill's mother, Jenny Jerome, was a New Yorker, and he is one of only three people given honorary citizenship by the U.S. Congress. (Lafayette and Raoul Wallenberg are the others.)

E <=== DOWNING ST








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East:

268: Bar Pitti; Italian with big sidewalk cafe

260: Da Silvano, trendy Tuscan. It was here that Princess Michael of Kent slurred a party of black media figures.












W <===             WEST HOUSTON STREET             ===> E

West:











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W <===     KING STREET     ===> E

West:

Corner (18 King): Le Pescadou; French seafood








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                                        MACDOUGAL ST     ===> N

W <===     CHARLTON ST / PRINCE ST     ===> E

West:

185: After the Draft Riots of 1863, conscription resumed here on August 19, at the office of the 6th District provost marshall.


W <===         VANDAM ST






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194: This mid-rise apartment building used to be the 10th Precinct Station House, built 1893; later the NYPD's quartermaster storehouse. Turned into housing in 1987. (Before the extension of 6th Avenue, this address was 24 MacDougal.)









W <===     SPRING ST     ===> E

This intersection is the approximate location of the front gate of Richmond Hill, a colonial estate that was used as a military headquarters by George Washington, and was later a residence for both John Adams and Aaron Burr.

West:






145 (corner): This was the last address of Murray Hall, born Mary Anderson, a Tammany Hall pol who lived as a man, twice married to women, played poker and smoked cigars with the prominent politicians of New York. Hall's biological identity was only revealed when Hall died in 1901.


W <===         DOMINICK ST





131: Chelsea Vocational High School

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Corner (210 Spring): Aquagrill, popular oyster house














                    SULLIVAN ST     ===> N

W <===     BROOME ST     ===> E

West:











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110: Lupe's East L.A. Kitchen, Mexican restaurant where Jeff Daniels met Melanie Griffith in Something Wild.

W <===     WATTS ST     ===> E

West:




101: This 1992 tower is the headquarters of the Building Services Employees International Union.




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100 (corner): The Green 6th Avenue Building is a 1928 Art Deco structure designed by Ely Jacques Kahn; note the bas relief workers on the 2nd floor.






W <===     GRAND ST     ===> E

West:











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W <===     CANAL ST     ===> E

S <===     LAIGHT ST                      



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