New York Songlines: Broadway

W 50th | W 49th | W 48th | W 47th | W 46th | W 45th | W 44th | W 43rd | W 42nd/7th Ave | W 41st | W 40th |
W 39th | W 38th | W 37th | W 36th | W 35th | W 34th/6th Ave | W 33rd | W 32nd | W 31st | W 30th |
W 29th | W 28th | W 27th | W 26th | W 25th | W 24th | 23rd/5th Ave | E 22nd | E 21st | E 20th |
E 19th | E 18th | E 17th | E 14th/4th Ave | E 13th | E 12th | E 11th | E 10th |
E 9th | E 8th | Waverly Place | Washington Place | 4th | 3rd/Great Jones | Bond | Bleecker | Houston | Wall

Broadway was originally an Indian trail, called the Wickquasgeck Road, that followed the ridge of the hilly island of Manahatta. The Dutch settlers called it Heere Straat, or High Street, because of its elevated position; one of several other names it was known by was the Broad Wagon Way, which presumably was the origin of its present appellation. Above what is now Union Square it was known as the Bloomingdale Road, after a village located on the present-day Upper West Side.

Broadway now runs all the way to Albany, making it the longest street in the world. It may also be the street most sung about, immortalized in countless songs like "Lullaby of Broadway," "On Broadway" and "A Lamb Lies Down on Broadway."

It's said that there's a broken heart for every light on Broadway--or is it a broken light for every heart?



Columbus Circle

A roundabout honoring one of history's greatest monsters. It's not that he should be held responsible for all of Europe's effects on a New World that he didn't even realize he had found; rather, he should be held responsible for what he did personally to the inhabitants of Hispaniola, whom he exploited and exterminated with an efficiency that would have made Eichmann proud. His statue, by Gaetano Russo and dedicated on the 400th anniversary of Columbus' first voyage in 1892, stands on a 70-foot pillar featuring representations of the Nina, Pinta and Santa Maria.

The circle got a major makeover in 2005 to make it more hospitable and accessible to pedestrians.

W <===     COLUMBUS CIRCLE     ===> E

West:

2 Columbus Circle

990 (block): In 1964, a 12-story concave tower designed by Edward Durell Stone was built here to house the Gallery of Modern Art, the collection of A & P heir Huntington Hartford. Known as the Lollipop Building for its distinctive ground-floor columns, it was noted for its almost windowless white marble facade, which attracted both ridicule and affection. After being owned by Fairleigh Dickinson University and Gulf + Western, the building became home to the city's Department of Cultural Affairs and the New York Convention and Visitors Bureau from 1980 until 1998. The city transferred the property to the Museum of Arts & Design, which embarked on a highly controversial redesign of the building. Despite vocal calls to preserve the building as a historically important example of Modernism, the Landmark Commission stubbornly refused to even hold hearings on the matter. The new look is set to be unveiled in 2008.

From 1874 until 1960, this was the site of the Pabst Grand Circle Hotel, a seven-story brownstone with a mansard roof. Actors Equity was founded there in 1913.

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

1802 (block): Dino Shoe Repair; West Park Market; Blues


























W <===     WEST 58TH STREET     ===> E

West:

Columbus Tower

Block: Also known as the Newsweek Building, for its most prominent tenant (since 1994), the first three stories of this 25-story building went up in 1921 as the Collonade Building, noted for its Ionic columns (William Welles Bosworth, architect). The Broadway side was leased to the Hudson Motor Car Company for an Essex showroom, a space that from 1974 to 2003 was home to Coliseum Books, one of New York's most storied bookstores. The northern corner is the Cosmic Coffee House. In 1926, Shreve & Lamb added 22 stories to the building, which became General Motors' East Coast headquarters; the building was known as the General Motors Building until 1968, when the company moved to 5th Avenue. The current owner decided to reclad the building in glass in 2008, an aesthetically dubious move. It's also being renamed, inanely, 3 Columbus Circle, despite not being on Columbus Circle.

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

1790 (corner): This was the address of the NAACP, where on October 25, 1976, the pardon of the last surviving Scottsboro Boy, Clarence Norris, was announced.
















1780 (corner): Lazarus Building houses the Perfect Picture Store, Pax Wholesome Foods.

W <===     WEST 57TH STREET     ===> E

West:

Corner (250 W 57th): The Fisk Building is a 26-story office building from 1921, designed by Carèrre & Hastings and Shreve, Lamb & Blake for the Fisk Tire and Rubber Company. It has its own entrance to the Columbus Circle subway station. Once a hub for auto industry offices, it now specializes in entertainment; David Bowie had his offices here in the 1980s, and it's currently home to RZO, which provides business services to a roster of rock stars like Bowie, the Rolling Stones, U2, Madonna, etc.

The Fisk Building where supervillain Wilson Fisk (aka The Kingpin) works seems to be an entirely different building--though it is somewhere in Midtown.

Corner (235 W 56th): Symphony House Apartments, 43-story building from 1986

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:















Corner (211 W 56th): Carnegie Mews Apartments, a 37-story high-rise designed by Emery Roth & Sons (1979), houses the only Manhattan branch of Hooters.

W <===     WEST 56TH STREET     ===> E

West:

1745 (block): Random House









B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

1740 (block): Mutual Life Insurance Co. (MONY)








W <===     WEST 55TH STREET     ===> E

West:

1727 (corner): Applejack Diner is on the site of the Hotsy Totsy Club (then numbered 1721), Jack "Legs" Diamond's speakeasy and the headquarters of his rackets. A gangster named Red Cassidy was murdered here on July 13, 1929, but the case against Diamond was dropped when some eight witnesses died or disappeared.


Corner: 54 Broadway Cafe

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

Corner (210 W 55th): Dream Hotel (formerly the Majestic, originally the Woodward Hotel) is in a Beaux Arts building from 1895. Serafina, Italian, on the ground floor.

1710: Bad Boy Worldwide, Sean "Diddy" Combs' management company

1708 (corner): International Ladies Garment Workers Union

W <===     WEST 54TH STREET     ===> E

West:

Corner: Ameritania Hotel (formerly Bryant Hotel) has scary online reviews. Twist Lounge on ground floor.

Ed Sullivan Theatre

1697: Built in 1927 as Hammerstein's Theater, Arthur Hammerstein's tribute to his father Oscar, it was later known as the Manhattan Theater and Billy Rose's Music Hall. In 1936, CBS began radio broadcasts from here, and it was converted to a TV studio in 1950. It was home to the classic show The Honeymooners and The Merv Griffin Show and such game shows as What's My Line?, To Tell the Truth, Password and The $20,000 Pyramid. But it was most famously home to the The Ed Sullivan Show, which aired from here until its 1971 cancellation. It was here that Elvis Presley performed on September 9, 1956, the camera famously avoiding his swiveling hips, and the Beatles made their U.S. television debut on February 9, 1964. Since David Letterman moved to CBS in 1993, it's been the studio for his Late Show.

1695 (corner): Omido, sleek sushi restaurant designed by AvroKO.

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

1700 (block): A 1969 Emery Roth building with 42 floors. Europa Cafe on the ground floor.
























W <===     WEST 53RD STREET     ===> E

West:

Broadway Theatre

1685 (corner): Built in 1924 to a Eugene DeRosa design, it was originally the Colony Theatre, where "Steamboat Willie," the first talking cartoon, debuted in 1928. (Mickey Mouse had been introduced in "Plane Crazy" six months earlier.) After being renamed the Broadway, it saw the premiere of Fantasia in 1939. My Fair Lady, The Music Man and South Pacific all had their Broadway debuts here, as did My Sister Eileen. It's also been home to such successful musicals as The Wiz Evita, Les Miserables, Miss Saigon and The Color Purple.

1675 (corner): A green granite office tower, designed by Fox & Fowle and built 1986-89, wraps around the Broadway Theatre.

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:












1678 (corner): Earle Building was the original home of Birdland, Charlie Parker's legendary jazz club from 1949-65. After such incarnations as Ubangi, Ebony and Clicque, now houses Flash Dancers, a topless club. Also in the building are Leone Pizza and Gourmet Deli & Hot Bagel.

W <===     WEST 52ND STREET     ===> E

West:

1657 (corner): Novotel New York Times Square is part of a French hotel chain; includes the Broadway Bar. Art Cafe, Broadway Deli are on the ground floor.









1653: Phantom of Broadway, souvenirs

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

Sheraton Manhattan at Times Square

Block (790 7th Ave): The hotel takes up the entire block, but the businesses on the Broadway side have their own addresses:

1666: Zan Boutique

1662: Warner's Theater The Jazz Singer

1658: Georgi-oh!, women's clothing, is at the address of the original Roseland Ballroom-- a popular dancehall where the phrase "taxi dancer" is said to have originated.

W <===     WEST 51ST STREET     ===> E

West:

Paramount Plaza

1633 (block): Originally known as the Uris Building, this 48-floor building went up in 1970 on the site of the Capitol Theatre, demolished in 1968. The 1919 cinema was designed by Thomas Lamb and was managed for a time by Samuel "Roxy" Rothapfel. It originally sat 5,300, making it the largest cinema in New York at the time and probably the world. It was the flagship of MGM's cinema chain; The Wizard of Oz and Gone With the Wind both opened here in 1939. The talent show Major Bowes' Original Amateur Hour, a huge phenomenon in its 1930s heyday, was broadcast from here on CBS Radio. The last movie to play here was 2001.

Now houses the U.S. offices of Hachette Filipacchi, the world's largest magazine publisher; several of their American magazines are based here, such as Elle, Woman's Day and Premiere. Located in the sunken courtyard is Mars 2112, a touristy sci-fi-themed restaurant.

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

1650 (corner): Ellen's Stardust Diner features 1950s nostalgia and a singing waitstaff. Below is the Iridium Jazz Club.

1638: Was Hawaii Kai, a Polynesian-themed restaurant from the 1950s through the 1980s. The scene in Goodfellas with Joe Pesci and the waiter was shot here.

Winter Garden Theater

1634 (corner): Starting Life in 1885 as the American Horse Exchange Building, it was largely rebuilt as the Winter Garden in 1911 and remodeled by Herbert J. Krapp in 1923. Its debut production included the Broadway premiere of Al Jolson. Here were the Broadway bows of Wonderful Town, West Side Story, Funny Girl, Mame, Steven Sondheim's Follies and Pacific Overtures, Beatlemania and 42nd Street. Cats set a Broadway record by playing here 7,485 performances between 1982 and 2000. The Twyla Tharp/David Byrne collaboration The Catherine Wheel was performed here in 1981.

W <===     WEST 50TH STREET     ===> E

In the Damon Runyon story "Breach of Promise," Harry the Horse says he carried eight slugs in his body from this intersection to Brooklyn. It's also where Runyon runs into the title character of "Madame La Gimp."

At this intersection on December 7, 1988, Soviet Premier Mikhail Gorbachev got out of his limousine to greet New Yorkers--an incident that symbolized the new spirit of glasnost.

West:



Brill Building

1619 (corner): Built in 1931 by developer Abraham Lefcourt, it was soon taken over and renamed by the Brill Brothers clothing store. In 1932, Southern Music Publishing Company moved here, starting the building's role as a center of music publishing that would last until 1974. (Buddy Holly met his soon-to-be wife, Maria Elena Santiago, at Southern Music, where she was a secretary.) Almost a third of the songs played on Your Hit Parade from 1935 until 1958 were published by Brill Building companies. Songwriters like Carole King, Burt Bacharach, Neil Diamond and Neil Sedaka got their starts here. Big Bands like the Dorsey Brothers, Guy Lombardo, Duke Ellington and Cab Calloway were also headquartered here. On the ground floor, the Colony Music Center, with vintage vinyl and a great sheet music collection, is a reminder of the building's glory days.

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:





Caroline's

1626: Opened in 1981 in Chelsea, this famous comedy club has featured big names like Jerry Seinfeld, Jay Leno and Rosie O'Donnell.

It's on the site of the original Lindy's, immortalized in Damon Runyon's stories as "Mindy's." The late-night diner was opened August 20, 1921, by Leo Lindermann. Gambler Arnold Rothstein used it as his office, with a table no one else could sit at after 9 p.m.; he was Runyon's model for Nathan Detroit. Warning: Do not eat at Lindy's latter-day chain incarnations; they are charmless and overpriced.

1620: The site of the Rivoli Theatre, New York's grandest movie palace, designed by Thomas Lamb for Paramount with 2,092 seats. Torn down in 1988 after being defaced to avoid landmarking.





W <===     WEST 49TH STREET     ===> E

Gambler Sky Masterson met the mission worker Sarah Brown at this corner in the Damon Runyon story "The Idyll of Miss Sarah Brown."

West:

Crowne Plaza Manhattan

1605 (block): This 1989 building by Alan Lapidus stands out for its purplish glass and curved concrete corners.










1593 (corner): On the southeast corner of the hotel is Hershey's Times Square, a chocolate store with a 215-foot multimedia facade. Spot any broken lights? It's supposed to look like that.

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:






1600 (corner): The site of the Studebaker Building, built in 1902 as an auto showroom. In the 1930s it was Joseph Hilton & Sons suits, in 1939 the Ripley Believe It or Not! Odditorium ("Curioddities From 200 Countries"), in the 1940s-60s Howard Clothes, and more recently Tony Roma's A Place for Ribs. Before the Renaissance Hotel was built, it was one of the most visible spots in Times Square, bringing the rooftop memorable signage from Maxwell House to Sony. Torn down in 2005, it's being replaced by a high-rise apartment building designed by Einhorn Yaffee Prescott Achitecture & Engineering. ("Einhorn" is German for "unicorn.")

W <===     WEST 48TH STREET     ===> E

West:

Morgan Stanley

1585 (block): The post-modern facade of this building features rolling financial quotes. In 1914, this block became the site of The Strand, the first Times Square theater designed specifically for movies.







B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

Ramada Renaissance

1580 (block): This wedge-shaped building, put up in 1989, is most famous for its signage--Coca-Cola has had a sign here since 1936 (though it's temporarily absent). The site has a storied history: In the 1920s it was the Palais Royale, with the Moulin Rouge in the basement; then from 1936 to 1940 it was the Cotton Club's post-Harlem home, featuring stars like Cab Calloway, Louis Armstrong, Duke Ellington and Lena Horne. From 1942 to 1969, it was the Latin Quarter nightclub--run by Lou Walters, Barbara Walters' father.


W <===             WEST 47TH STREET             ===> E

West:





1557: This building was the site of Horn and Hardart's first Automat.

1553: Duffy Theatre, an off-Broadway theater right on Broadway. "Perfect Crime" has been playing here since 1987.

Howard Johnson's

Corner: This was not only the last HoJo's in New York--it was one of the last in the entire country. Missed for its cocktails and Americana.

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

Duffy Square

This triangular traffic island is named in honor of Father Francis P. Duffy, who after serving as chaplain to the "Fighting 69th" Division in World War I helped to clean up Hell's Kitchen. He was also Broadway's spiritual advisor, which is why his statue can be found here, next to a Celtic cross. Also here is George M. Cohan, forever giving his regards to Broadway.

In 1909, a 50-foot statue of Purity was erected here that lasted two months.

At the north end of the island is the TKTS booth, offering half-priced tickets to selected plays on the day of the show. See images.


                                        7TH AVENUE       ===> N

W <===             WEST 46TH STREET             ===> E

The traffic island in Times Square between 46th and 45th Street is the site of Times Square, a sound installation by Max Neuhaus.

This is the intersection where Giselle emerges from the manhole in the movie Enchanted.

West:

New York Marriott Marquis

1535 (block): When this glitzy mammoth was built in 1981-85--the first major new hotel in Times Square in 75 years--it destroyed five classic theaters: the Astor, Bijou, Gaiety, Morosco and the old Helen Hayes. (It did add one new one--The Marquis.) This wanton destruction led to a wave of landmarking in the Theater District. The design is by John Portman, noted for similar hotels around the country.

The facade of the hotel features a huge electronic sign for Bank of America, and an enormous ad for Kodak.

In the movie True Lies, Arnold Schwarzenegger rides a horse on this building and almost falls off the edge.

1537 (corner): The Astor Theater, once on this corner, was in 1948 the site of Babe Ruth's final public appearance, to attend the premiere of The Babe Ruth Story.

T
I
M
E
S

S
Q
U
A
R
E

East:

1550 (corner): Digital Cameras & Computers

Bertelsmann Building

1540: The U.S. headquarters of the German media conglomerate, which owns Random House and RCA records, among much else; better known as the home of the Virgin Megastore, billed as the world's largest record store. The post-modern blue-and-green glass structure, designed by Skidmore Owings & Merrill, was put up between 1989 and 1990. The site used to hold the Loews State Theater Building, built 1920, and memorialized by the Loews State Theatre 4 in the basement.

North of the Megastore, from 2000-2002, was Bar Code, a combination club/video arcade.

At the southwest corner of the Bertelsmann Building is the Times Square branch of Planet Hollywood. Formerly the Official All Star Cafe, a sports-themed restaurant.


W <===             WEST 45TH STREET             ===> E

West:

Astor Plaza

1515 (block): Best known as the location of MTV's studios, this 1969 Kahn & Jacobs building was allowed to grow to 50 floors because it added theatrical space--The Minskoff, named for the skyscraper's developer. (Pippin, Sunset Boulevard and The Scarlet Pimpernel had their debuts here.) On the ground floor are Element clothing, Billabong Surf Shop and the MTV Store.

The building replaced its namesake, the Astor Hotel, a well-loved Times Square landmark. Built in 1904 by William Waldorf Astor, the hotel housed such celebrity residents as Toscanini, Will Rogers, Jimmy Durante and Carmen Miranda. It was here, according to Cole Porter, that Mimsie Starr got pinched in the Astor Bar.

















T
I
M
E
S

S
Q
U
A
R
E

East:

1528 (corner): A Swatch outlet

This block has long been famous for its signage-- from 1936 until 1942, Wrigley's had a block-long sign here featuring giant neon fish and the "Wrigley's Spearman." This was replaced, from 1948 to 1954, by the Bond Clothiers sign, a neon spectacular that featured two 7-story nude figures (later clothed in neon after complaints from the Hotel Astor) and an actual waterfall with 50,000 gallons of recirculating water. Pepsi took over the spot, turning the giants into giant bottles, and an illuminated clock into a bottlecap. Today the site features relatively mundane ads for Liz Claiborne and Jockey underwear.

The building below the sign has been known as the Bond Building (after the clothing store) and the Bow-Tie Building (for its peculiar Times Square shape). In the 1980s, there was a large disco called Bond's here.

From 1895 until 1935, this was the site of Oscar Hammerstein's Olympia Theater, the first theater above 42nd Street. The huge complex sat 6,000 people--too big to survive being too early for Times Square's heyday. The rooftop garden, the Jardin de Paris, was the first home of the Ziegfeld Follies.

1520 (corner): This Toys "R" Us superstore is noted for its interior ferris wheel and animatronic dinosaur. See images. It replaced the Criterion Theater (at 1514 Broadway), a movie palace that hosted the premieres of blockbusters like The Ten Commandments, Lawrence of Arabia and Patton. Demolished in 2000 to make room for the toy store.


W <===             WEST 44TH STREET             ===> E

West:

Paramount Building

1501 (block): Built for the film company in 1927; the step-like setbacks are intended to resemble the mountain on the Paramount logo. Here was the Paramount Theater, which was Frank Sinatra's home base in the early 1940s, and a Beatles venue in 1964; the space was later the WWE New York, a wrestling-themed restaurant. The Hard Rock Cafe is slated to move in; also in the building now is the Bubba Gump Shrimp Co., named for the business in Forrest Gump. (Boy, I hated that movie.)

The superhero Captain Marvel was born on the 22nd floor here in 1940, in the offices of Fawcett Comics.

This was earlier the site of the Putnam Building, which was used as a base by racketeer Kid Dropper. Involved in a gang war with another mob leader, the Kid was shot while being sent out of town with an escort of 80 cops.

The Paramount Building has pre-recorded chimes that play "Give My Regards to Broadway" at 7:45 p.m. every day to remind theatergoers that it's 15 minutes until curtain.




T
I
M
E
S

S
Q
U
A
R
E

East:

Times Square Studios

1500 (block): This holds the set of ABC's Good Morning America, and for Dick Clark's New Year's Eve broadcasts. ABC News runs a zipper here.

Corner: The northwest corner of the block used to be the Hotel Rector, later known as the Claridge. From 1941 to 1966, it displayed the famous Camel sign that blew real smoke rings. The hotel was home and office for a time to mob boss Lucky Luciano; it also housed director D.W. Griffith while his upstate estate was being built. The music-writers group ASCAP was founded here in 1914 with members like John Philip Sousa, Irving Berlin and Victor Herbert. John Voight and Dustin Hoffman stayed there in Midnight Cowboy.

In the middle of the block was Rector's, a Gay '90s "lobster palace" that was a favorite with Diamond Jim Brady--Charles Rector called him his "best 25 customers." New York's first revolving door was installed here in 1899. Torn down in 1899 to make way for the hotel.

Corner: The southeast corner of the block (where the JVC globe is today) was the site of the Barrett House Hotel, where playwright Eugene O'Neill was born on October 16, 1888, while his father was in town playing The Count of Monte Cristo.


W <===             WEST 43RD STREET             ===> E

S <===       7TH AVENUE                                        

The Times Square Army recruiting station is in the middle of the square at this intersection.

West:

At the tip of this block is a small NYPD substation.

One Times Square

It was Longacre Square until the New York Times shockingly moved its offices from Newspaper Row downtown to what was then the edge of town, suddenly made accessible by subway. (It replaced the Pabst Hotel on the site.) Building an Italian Renaissance castle on the spot, the paper got the city to rename first the subway stop and then the square after itself.

The paper celebrated moving in on New Year's Eve, 1904, with a fireworks display--starting the tradition of Times Square as the place to be on December 31. The ball, which used to drop from Trinity Church downtown, has been dropping from here since 1908. The Times moved off the Square in 1913, but the name has stuck.

The world's first illuminated news ticker (dubbed the "Motogram") circles the building; it got its start reporting the 1928 election returns. (Hoover won.) Its announcement of Japan's surrender set off Times Square's famous celebration of the end of World War II.

The tower was modernized by new owners Allied Chemical, who moved out in 1975. Since then the building has mostly been a place to put giant signs. The ground floor was a Warner Brothers store for a while.

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

Conde Nast Building

1520 (block): This building, unhelpfully known as "4 Times Square," houses the offices of the Conde Nast publishing empire (Vogue, GQ, Vanity Fair, New Yorker, Wired, etc.). The building, designed by Fox & Fowle and built from 1996-99, is praised for letting its freak flag fly on Times Square while presenting a more sober facade on the newly respectable 42nd Street. The northwest corner of the building is the Blade Runner-esque NASDAQ display, while the southwest corner is the ESPN Zone sports-themed restaurant.

The architect says he was inspired by Nathan's, which used to have an Art Deco restaurant on the northwest corner--originally Toffenetti's, built for the 1939 World's Fair.

















W <===             WEST 42ND STREET             ===> E

"The Crossroads of the World"

West:

Times Square Tower

1459 (block): This 47-floor office building (2001-03) was supposed to house the headquarters of Arthur Andersen, but the Enron scandal scuttled the deal. Has the fake and confusing address of 7 Times Square.

Corner: The Times Square Brewery, a post-Disneyfication microbrewery, used to be on this site.

1457: Also in the building was XS, a virtual reality and lazer tag arcade--now defunct.







B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

Former Knickerbocker Hotel

Corner: Built between 1901 and 1906 for John Jacob Astor IV, this Renaissance Eclectic structure was once one of the city's most fashionable hotels, housing celebreties like George M. Cohan and Enrico Caruso, who used to serenade fans from the balcony of his suite. The hotel's King Cole Bar was noted for its Maxfield Parrish mural, which now graces a bar of the same name at the St Regis-Sheraton.

It later became known as the Newsweek Building when it housed the newsweekly's offices.

Monk Eastman, the famous gang leader, was captured here by police while having a shoot-out with a Pinkerton detective; the 10 years he got spelt the end of his power in the underworld.

1460 (corner): Siemens Building


W <===             WEST 41ST STREET             ===> E

West:

1441 (corner): Cool ziggurat-like building houses offices of the fashion company Liz Claiborne.












1431 (corner): The address of the Poodle Dog, a restaurant/cabaret opened in 1913.

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

1450 (corner): This 1931 building houses Walt Disney Theatrical Productions and Nederlander Producing, among other tenants. Cafe Duke is on the ground floor.

1440 (corner): Here Federated Department Stores, owners of Macy's, Bloomingdale's and other retail giants, has its headquarters. Here are also the studios of WOR radio, a historic station founded in 1922 that launched Golden Age programs like The Lone Ranger and Superman. For 75 years the station (whose call letters stand for ''Orpheus Radio'') broadcast Rambling With Gambling, a morning show continued by its founder's son and grandson. Dr. Joy Browne's show is broadcast from here, but much of the station's airtime is now devoted to far-right hosts like Bob Grant and Michael Savage.


W <===             WEST 40TH STREET             ===> E

West:

1411 (block): This block was home to the Metropolitan Opera House from 1883 until 1966. Built by Gilded Age businessmen like William Vanderbilt who were denied boxes at the Academy of Music on 14th Street, it soon eclipsed the older venue as the central stage of New York society (as depicted in Edith Wharton's Custom of the Country). It saw the American debuts of Enrico Caruso (11/23/1903) and Vaslav Nijinsky (4/12/1916). After Dorothy Parker was fired from Vanity Fair, she and Robert Benchley rented an office here for writing--so small, Benchley said, that one cubic foot less "would have constituted adultery."

Sculptor Karl Bitter was struck by a car and killed leaving the opera here on April 9, 1915, the day he completed the model for the Pulitzer Fountain.

The beloved house was doomed by the Metropolitan Opera company, which insisted, when it moved to Lincoln Center, that the building's buyer tear it down so that a rival opera company could not use it.

It was replaced with the World Apparel Center. With more than a million square feet of space, this block-spanning 1970 building is touted as the premier showroom for the Fashion District.

There's a triangular space in front of the current building called Golda Meir Square--with a bust of the Israeli prime minister at the southern end.

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

1430 (corner):





















1418: The Kaiserhof Restaurant opened here in 1914.

1412: The Europa Cafe is in to a no longer existing building, also numbered 1412.

1412 (corner): The Fashion Gallery Building has the Gotham Bank of New York on the ground floor.


W <===             WEST 39TH STREET             ===> E

West:

1407 (block): This building houses (among other things) the restaurant Abigael's on Broadway, Harrie's Delicatessen & Bakery, Peter's Flowers (since 1937) and Via Rossi shoes.


















B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

1410 (corner): Where the Andrews Coffee Shop is now was the Casino Theater (1882-1929), said to be the best example of Moorish architecture in the country. It was the first theater with a roof garden, the first to be entirely lit by electricity, and the first to feature a chorus line--the Floradora Girls, who included Evelyn Nesbit, over whom Harry K. Thaw murdered Stanford White.

The X-ray machine was demonstrated here in 1896-- as a curiosity billed as the "Parisian Sensation."

The current building is the Bricken Casino Building, a 1929 effort by Eli Jacques Kahn noted for its inventive use of setbacks" and its "blade-like precision and grace."

1400 (corner): On the site of the old Knickerbocker Theater can be found the New Yankee Cafe and the Israel-based Leumi Bank (founded by Theodor Herzl). This building was also designed by Eli Jacques Kahn.


W <===             WEST 38TH STREET             ===> E

West:

1385 (corner): A branch of Crunch Fitness













1375 (corner): The home of Broadway's Jerusalem 2 Kosher Pizza & Falafel

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

1384 (corner): Lefcourt Normandie Building, built by Garment District developer Abraham Lefcourt, on the site of the Hotel Normandie. Tchaikovsky stayed there in the spring of 1891 to inaugurate Carnegie Hall. Nick and Nora Charles also stayed here in the novel The Thin Man.

The Lefcourt Normandie National Bank of New York, founded in 1928, after a series of mergers and name changes became Chemical (now Chase) Bank.

Beads World, a Garment District supplier, can be found here now.

1372 (corner): Includes Mr. Broadway Glatt Kosher cafe and Another Good Location deli.


W <===             WEST 37TH STREET             ===> E

West:

1369 (corner): Showroom of Ecko Unltd., hip-hop clothing line with the rhino logo.







1359 (corner): Lefcourt Marlboro Building provides space for Kosher Delight, Eurovision Optical and Food Merchants.

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

1370 (corner): Rosenthal & Rosenthal, financial services for the apparel industry since 1938.

Haier Building

1356 (corner): Built 1922-24 for the Greenwich Savings Bank and later used by Republic National Bank, this striking landmark surrounded by Corinthian columns is now the New York headquarters of the Haier Group, China's leading refrigerator manufacturer. Inside is Gotham Hall, a dramatic domed space often used for fashion shows.


W <===             WEST 36TH STREET             ===> E

The Broadway Cable and Seventh Avenue Railroad Company ran cable cars from here down to Bowling Green, with the cables all pulled by 100-ton wheels in the basement of the Cable Building on Houston Street (where the Angelica is today).

West:

1333 (block): The Johnson Building's ground floor is mostly occupied by Conway Herald Square, "some of Herald Square's cheapest threads"--Time Out. The Marlborough-Blenheim hotel used to be at No. 1353.



Corner: The site of the New York Aquarium from 1876 to 1883. Later there was a theater variously called the New Park, Harrigan's and the Herald Square.

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

1350 (corner): Herald Square Building contains an HSBC bank. The entire block was once the site of the New York Herald Building, a two-story Venetian palace built in 1893 by McKim, Mead and White and housing the paper that now lives on only in the International Herald Tribune. Demolished 1921, but its name remains in the square to its south.


The southern end of the block is a Florsheim shoe outlet.


W <===             WEST 35TH STREET             ===> E

West:

Macy's

Since 1902, this has been the location of the famous department store founded by Capt. Rowland Hussey Macy, a former whaling captain whose red star tattoo is still the store's symbol (and a whale is still used in sale ads). With expansions to take up (almost) the entire block, this still holds the record for the world's largest store. Macy's claims credit for such innovations as standardized sizes (1934), colored bath towels (1932), the tea bag (1912), the baked potato (1926) and the department store Santa (1870)--the latter claim to fame cemented by the 1947 classic Miracle on 34th Street, set at the store. Another holiday tradition is Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade, first thrown in 1924 by immigrant employees in imitation of European street processions. (The balloons were added in 1927.) Macy's is also responsible for New York's July 4th fireworks.

The one part of the block not owned by Macy's is, ironically, the southeast corner with the enormous "Macy's" sign on it. When Macy's was buying up the block, competitor Henry Siegel of the Siegel-Cooper department store snatched up the corner-- perhaps to leverage Macy's into selling Siegel-Cooper its old space on 14th Street. Macy's simply built around the holdout, and now leases the space above for its giant ad. Currently the corner itself is a Sunglasses Hut.

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

Herald Square

As in, "Remember me at..." Named for the New York Herald, a racist, anti-Semitic newspaper founded by James Gordon Bennett whose offices were directly to the north of this triangle. The paper introduced such features as the gossip column and Wall Street coverage. Later merged with the New York Tribune; the International Herald-Tribune is the surviving relic.

The clock and statuary, crafted in 1895 by Jean-Antonie Carles, are from the old Herald building; the goddess is Minerva, complete with owls, and the bellringers, which swing their hammers on the hour, are nicknamed Stuff and Guff.
















                                            6TH AVENUE       ===> N

W <===             WEST 34TH STREET             ===> E

West:

Herald Center

Built for Saks & Company in 1901-02. Rebuilt in 1982-85 as a mall with a glass elevator on the corner. Daffy's is the anchor store.







B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

Herald Towers

1300 (block): AKA McAlpin House; built as the Hotel McAlpin in 1913, at the time the largest hotel in New York; noted for its "silent floor" for the nocturnal. Converted to apartments in 1979; the murals of New York Harbor in the hotel's Marine Grill were removed and installed in the Fulton Street subway stop. Claims the dubious distinction of housing the highest-grossing Gap outlet in the country.


W <===             WEST 33RD STREET             ===> E

S <===       6TH AVENUE                                            

West:

Greeley Square

This triangular square is named for Horace Greeley, the founder of the New York Tribune. Though chiefly remembered as the guy who said "Go west, young man" (which was not actually his line), Greeley was actually one of the most influential journalists in American history. An advocate of social reform (Karl Marx was a European correspodent), Greeley supported abolition, worker's rights and (yes) Western settlement. As a reporter covering Congress in 1855, he was given a concussion by the cane of pro-slavery House Speaker Albert Rust. He helped found the Republican Party and was instrumental in making Abraham Lincoln the 1860 candidate. Surprisingly, he was the 1872 Democratic candidate for president; he was trounced by U.S. Grant and died a month later.

The statue of Greeley in a chair is an 1890 work by Alexander Doyle. The square was dedicated in 1894.

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

1270-1280 (corner): The Wilson Building, 1912, houses Cambridge Members clothing store, founded 1966.









Holiday Inn Broadway Martinique

1270 (corner): Built from 1897-1911 as The Martinique, named for its owner, William R.H. Martin. Designed in French Renaissance style by Henry Hardenbergh, architect of The Plaza and The Dakota. Went through a bad spell in the 1970s and '80s as a forbidding homeless shelter; now refurbished by the Holiday Inn chain. The restaurant on the corner, Diner on the Square, has closed.


W <===             WEST 32ND STREET             ===> E

In the movie Hospitality, made in 1923 but set in 1830, Buster Keaton on a proto-bicycle waits at this intersection--then a crossing of two country roads--for a buggy to pass. "Gettin' dangerous out here," a sherriff remarks.

West:

1271 (corner): Speedy's deli restaurant






1265: Olden Camera

1255 (corner): Porox, wholesale outlet in a handsome old building.

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

1250 (block): Big oddly-angled glass tower houses Woori America, a Korean bank. (32nd Street is the heart of New York's Koreatown.) On the southwestern corner is Style & Smile, a large wholesale outlet. Previously on this lot was the Imperial Hotel, very fashionable when it opened in 1890.






W <===             WEST 31ST STREET             ===> E

West:

1239: Fair Deal is on the site of the Brighton Theater, which opened in 1878; later the Bijou. Demolished and rebuilt in 1883; demolished and moved uptown in 1915. The present 17-story highrise dates to 1917.








B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

1232-1238 (corner): Was the Grand Hotel (1868), once one of New York's grandest accomodations. Now home to wholesale joints like Design Time Watch Inc. Note the mansard roof, a French affectation that allowed Parisians, whose buildings were limited by stories, to pretend that their top floor was an attic. A thoughtless owner painted over the marble facade, in violation of the landmark law.

1226 (corner): Decent Trading Inc. is on the site of Wallack's Theater, which moved up from 13th Street in 1881.


W <===             WEST 30TH STREET             ===> E

West:






1225: The address of American Hatter, a monthly in 1930

1221: The address of Wood's Museum, an early burlesque house that featured Lydia Thompson and her British Blondes in 1868. Later Daly's Theater, a highly regarded company. Became a movie house in 1915, torn down in 1920.

1217: Was the address of Dick Darling's saloon, where on November 7, 1881, forger/thief Billy Tracy killed Charles P. Miller, king of the bunco men.

1205 (corner): Tomato Import & Wholesale

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

1216 (corner): Perfume Americana

1204: India Handicrafts and Jewelry is at the address of Shanley's, a popular ''lobster palace'' opened in 1912. Composer Victor Herbert sued the restaurant for playing his music without paying royalties, a case that went to the Supreme Court in 1917 and resulted in a victory for songwriters.

Gilsey House

1200 (corner): This beautifully restored cast-iron Second Empire landmark is a former grand hotel (1872-1911), the first to offer telephone service to guests. Noted for its bar made of silver dollars, it was a favorite of Diamond Jim Brady and Oscar Wilde. Converted to housing in 1979. Ground floor now occupied by wholesale sellers like New York Sunglasses and Hair Accessories.


W <===             WEST 29TH STREET             ===> E

This block down to 28th Street was burned down during the draft riots of 1863.

West:

1201 (corner): Building with Peace Trading and European Frangrances has cool jungley bas relief strip.























B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

Breslin Apartments

1186 (corner): Opening in 1904 as the Hotel Breslin (designed by Clinton & Russell), it was noted in its heyday for attracting boxers like Joe Louis and Gene Tunney fighting at Madison Square Garden. In 1951, an 83-year-old W.E.B. du Bois was arrested here for running the anti-Korean War Peace Information Center. Now an SRO threatened with gentrification. The ground floor houses wholesale jewelry stores like Broadway Jewelers.

Previously on this site was Sturtevant House, where on June 2, 1873, novelist (and accused Confederate spy) Mansfield Walworth was shot to death by his son for making threats against the son's mother.

1182-1184: Centurian Building houses Broadway Linen, Silver by Fenix.

1180: Designer's Mart, where you can get a string of pearls for $10.

1178: Young Town Jewelry


W <=== WEST 28TH STREET ===> E

The block of 28th Street west of Broadway to 6th Avenue was Tin Pan Alley, music publishing hub in the early 20th Century.

West:

1181 (corner): Clover Trading Corp. is in the Baudouine Building (1896); note Greek temple on roof.

This is the Wholesale District, where shops get their stuff from. Supposedly most of these places will sell to the public if you ask nicely, but most of their stuff is more fun to look at than to actually own.

1165-1175: Was the Coleman House Hotel, built 1907--note Chicago School-style bay windows. Now houses such wholesale outlets as Fashion City, Lavish International, Manhattan Street Wear and Over Mars Ltd.

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

1170 (corner): House of Perfume is in the Johnston Building, a 1903 13-story structure by Schickel & Ditmars. Note lions' heads, dome on roof.






1158 (corner): Wholesale shops like Source USA, Omi Perfume (formerly Undefeated Wear) are in a peculiar red-and-black vertically striped building.


W <=== WEST 27TH STREET ===> E

West:

1157 (corner): Broadway Plaza Hotel is in a fairly nondescript modern-looking building that actually dates to 1920; Broadway Pizza's on the ground floor.

1153: Three Kings Trading is on the site of Holland Brothers' Kinetoscope Parlor, the world's first movie house-- where Edison's hand-cranked movies were first shown on April 6, 1894. Built on the site of the studio of John Rogers, a popular 19th Century sculptor.

1151: In front of this address, until 1880, stood the Varian Tree, named for the farm family whose land this once was. An old sign used to boast that the present building was once the nation's only distributer of Maxell batteries.

1149: Was Wallace & Co., according to the rusticated facade of this 1886 rowhouse by DeLemos & Cordes.

1147: Star Sportswear

1145: Lucky Trading/Broadway Boutique Trading

1141 (corner): Zena Coffee Shop; Fortuna Jewelry

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

1150 (corner): The Victoria Building is on the site of the Victoria Hotel, where President Grover Cleveland lived between his two separated terms of office. The present 19-story building, a 1914 effort by Schwartz & Gross, houses the X-Tensions wholesale hair dealer (formerly Sportique), and the National Tree Company (Christmas trees, that is).















1140 (corner): Ground floor of the 1915 Lowell Building has Kids Spot, Touch Down ("Wholesale to the Public"). Upstairs is Arnold Joseph, a railroad-oriented bookstore.


W <=== WEST 26TH STREET ===> E

The world's first electric streetlights, turned on December 20, 1880, lined Broadway from 26th Street to 14th.

West:

St James Building

1133 (corner): This 1897 office building provided offices for architects, including its designer, Bruce Price, and the Flatiron's Daniel Burnham. It held the office of Oscar F. Spate, who in 1901 made an ill-fated attempt to turn seating in Madison and Central parks into a for-profit enterprise. Future Israeli prime minister Golda Meir worked here for the Pioneer Women's Organization for Palestine (1932-34). From 1965 to 1968, this was the base of the Mattachine Society, the leading pre-Stonewall gay rights group.

Built on the site of the fashionable St James Hotel, which Confederate saboteurs tried to burn down on November 25, 1864.

Ultimate One Distribution Corp is on the ground floor. Upstairs is Photo Village, a high-end camera boutique.







1123 (corner): The Townsend Building, a 12-story 1898 highrise designed by Cyrus L.W. Eidlitz, houses the Broadway Cafe.

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

1134 (corner): This 21-story building went up in 1913.

1132: Dramatic bay windows and over-the-top detailing mark the Cross Chambers Building, a 1901 project of John B. Snook & Sons.

1130: Broadway Deals & Electronics (was Yedsonic), in a seven-story 1915 building

1126: Memories of New York, elaborate souvenir shop. On the 3rd floor of the 5-story red-brick building is Urban Angler.

1124: Most of the facade of this 1913 building is taken up by a larged arched window. Houses Pentagram, an international design company that has done work for the Public Theater, the Mesa Grill and the New York Times Magazine, among other clients. Used to be MK, a 1980s nightclub where Moby played his first live electronic gig in 1989.

1122 (corner): Commodore-Criterion, manufacturer of Christmas decorations, part of the Christmas District. The site of Worth House, a hotel that by 1900 housed the Berlitz School of Languages. The present building, a Buchman & Kahn design from 1918, was the flagship store (with science museum) of the A.C. Gilbert Company, a toy company that made the Erector set, radioactive chemistry sets and American Flyer model trains.


W <=== WEST 25TH STREET ===> E

West:

1115 (corner): 40/40 Club, Jay-Z's sports-oriented nightclub, is named for the elite group of ballplayers who have hit 40 homeruns and stolen 40 bases in a season. Was Liu Imports, Chinese antiques. The building, which dates to 1912, is calling itself Toy Tower 25.

On this site was Hoffman House, elegant hotel whose bar shocked Victorian NYC by displaying Bouguereau's Nymphs and Satyr -- which became a major tourist attraction. The painting belonged to Edward S. Stokes, an owner of the Hoffman, who had spent time in Sing-Sing for shooting financier Jim Fisk, his rival for singer Josie Mansfield's affections. Publisher William Randolph Hearst lived at the Hoffman when he first came to NYC in 1895. In 1901, the bar posted private detectives at every entrance during ax-wielding prohibitionist Carry Nation's visit to New York.

1111: Kurt S. Adler, aka, Santa's World, Christmas wholesaler since 1946, moved to 34th Street in 2006.

Toy Center North

1107 (corner): Note skywalk connecting to Toy Center South (see below). Built in 1911, replacing the Albemarle Hotel; Sarah Bernhardt stayed there when she made her U.S. debut in 1880, her room redecorated in Parisian style to remind her of home. Lillie Langtry stayed in the same suite on her first U.S. visit, in 1882, but on opening night watched the theater burn down through opera glasses from the hotel. ( See below.)

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

Worth Square

Memorial to Gen. William Jenkins Worth, namesake of Ft. Worth, Texas and downtown's Worth Street. After fighting in the War of 1812, he became commandant of cadets at West Point. During the Seminole Wars, he pioneered the targeting of civilian populations and the use of starvation as a tool of warfare. Fighting in the Mexican-American War, he led the capture of Mexico City, and was given command of the newly conquered terriories of Texas and New Mexico. He died of cholera in San Antonio, 1849, and was buried here in 1857.

The rectangular structure leads to Water Tunnel No. 1, carrying water from the Catskills.





















W <=== WEST 24TH STREET/5TH AVENUE ===> N

West:

International Toy Center

(Block (200 5th Ave): International Toy Center, since 1925 center of U.S. toy business; note toy and holiday displays. The LA Cafe is on the ground floor. On the corner, you can still make out a sign for the Garfield National Bank, which was around from 1881-1929 before merging with the Chase National Bank. In The Sweet Smell of Success, it serves as the offices of The New York Globe, J.J. Hunsecker's newspaper.

Replaced the Fifth Avenue Hotel (1858-1908), once the most exclusive hotel in NYC; presidents Grant and Arthur, as well as the Prince of Wales, stayed here. It was a gathering place for fat cats like Boss Tweed, Jay Gould, Jim Fisk and Commodore Vanderbilt, who would would trade stocks here after hours. A Republican bastion, it was here that the Democrats were first described as the party of "rum, Romanism and rebellion." But it was also a hangout for cultural figures like Mark Twain, O. Henry, Edwin Booth, Jenny Lind, William Cullen Bryant and Stanford White. It was used as the setting of Gore Vidal's 1876.

Earlier on this site was Franconi's Hippodrome (1852-59); before that was Corporal Thompson's Madison Cottage, a roadhouse described by the New York Herald as "one of the most agreeable spots for an afternoon's lounge in the suburbs of our city." It had been the house of John Horn, who used to own what is now Madison Square Park.

Note sidewalk clock (1909); once common in pre-wristwatch era.








B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

Madison Square Park

The 1807 plan set aside 240 acres in this vicinity as The Parade, to be used for military training. In that same year, the U.S. Arsenal was built here to defend the strategic intersection of the Bloomingdale Road (now Broadway) and the Eastern Post Road. By 1814, when the park was named Madison Square after the then-current president, it had been reduced to 90 acres. In 1847, when Madison Square Park was opened, less than seven acres remained.

The park, which was laid out in its current form in 1870, was the center of New York society in the 1860s and '70s. "The vicinity of Madison Square is the brightest, prettiest and liveliest portion of the great city," James McCabe wrote in 1872.

In July 1901, an attempt to turn seating in the park into a for-profit concession sparked rioting.

The park provides a setting for O. Henry short stories like "The Cop and the Anthem" and "The Sparrows in Madison Square").

The U.S. Arsenal was converted by 1824 to the House of Refuge of the Society for the Reformation of Juvenile Delinquents--the first such institution in the country.

Statue of William Seward

An early abolitionist who became NY governor (1838-42) and a U.S. senator (1848-61), Seward served as secretary of state under Lincoln and Andrew Johnson. He's most remembered for paying Russia $7 million for Alaska in 1867.

Making the statue in 1876, sculptor Randolph Rogers re-used his cast of Lincoln signing the Emancipation Proclamation for the body; Seward was actually short with a large head.

Stage coaches left twice a week for Albany from this intersection in the late 18th Century.

W <=== W 23RD ST / 5TH AVE ===> N
S <=== 5TH AVE / E 23RD ST ===> E

Broadway--then known as the Bloomingdale Road--was opened in 1703 from here to the village of Bloomingdale, near what is now 114th Street.

In the late 19th-early 20th centuries, Broadway from 23rd to 10th Street was known as "Ladies' Mile" for its fashionable stores, which launched the American culture of "shopping."

West:

Flatiron Building

Built in 1903 as the Fuller Building, its unusual and striking shape (designed by Daniel Burhnam to match its triangular lot) quickly earned it its lasting nickname. It is not true that is New York's first skyscraper-- just one of its most memorable. A traditional publishing center, it's still home to St Martin's Press. In 1910s, it housed the offices of the Socialist Labor Party, ancestor of most U.S. left parties. It features in the Spider-Man movies as the Daily Bugle building, and Jimmy Stewart and Kim Novak are teleported here in Bell, Book and Candle.

The ground floor features parfumerie Jo Malone, and MAC, cosmetics chain worn by RuPaul and sung about by TLC.

The phrase "23 Skidoo" (supposedly) originated with a police officer chasing off loiterers at the 23rd Street corner hoping to catch a glimpse of stocking under a skirt blown up by the freakish Flatiron winds.

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

Madison Green

940 (block): This very large luxury condo building (with Benvenuto Cafe on the ground) was built after the Wonder Drugs Fire of October 17, 1966, which killed 12 firefighters--the worst disaster in FDNY history, until the World Trade Center attacks. An earlier fire (January 5, 1952) at No. 2 E. 23rd Street, which was then the address at this corner, destroyed the studio (and much of the work) of sculptor Jacques Lipchitz. The Bartholdi Hotel was found at the corner of 23rd and Broadway in 1911.










W <=== EAST 22ND STREET ===> E

The modern rules of baseball were developed by teams who played near this intersection in 1846--though other accounts place the field near Madison and 27th.

West:

Albert Building

935-939: The building that houses Renaissance Hardware was built in 1861-62 as the Glenham Hotel by architect Griffith Thomas. Also known as the Albert or Mortimer Building. On the Broadway side, remains of letters that once spelled out "ALBERT" can be seen. According to City Reads, this building once housed the saloon of Dr. Jerry Thomas, master mixologist (for whom the Tom and Jerry was named). Cornelius Vanderbilt Jr., son of the Commodore, shot himself here on April 2, 1882, after a night of drinking and gambling.

929-933: Former site of M. Gordon Novelty Inc.--last remainder of Broadway's former Novelty District. These three-story tenements date from 1902.

927: Bang & Olufson, high-end audio and video, is in a 1910 building

921: Duxiana furniture was Victor Kamkin, Russian bookstore.

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

936 (corner): This was once the site of the Buck's Horn Tavern, which as long ago as 1816 was described as "an old and well-known tavern." Later the first bicycle-riding school opened on this site in 1868. Still later it was Abbey's Park Theater, where Lillie Langtry's American debut was scuttled by the theater burning down on October 30, 1882. Present building built for Brooks Brothers in 1883--it's been "modernized" since. Now houses Domain interiors; Just Bulbs, which sold light bulbs, also used to be here, prompting a David Letterman routine where he tried to get them to sell him something that was not a bulb.

928: Bar Stuzzichini is on the first of 12 floors from 1910, designed by William H. Birkmire.

924: Weirdly modernized black building used to house Eneslow, shoe store whose name seemed to spell something backwards, even though it didn't.

922 (corner): Shine Deli; short, mansard-roofed building looks like it was built a lot earlier than 1925.

W <=== EAST 21ST STREET ===> E

West:

915: A castle-like 20-story building from 1926, designed by Joseph Martine. On the ground is the restaurant/club Strata, formerly Metronome, swanky jazz restaurant that appeared as "Balzac" in the TV show Sex and the City. Upstairs is the Pacific College of Oriental Medicine's clinic. On this site was the Park & Tilford grocery house.

913: Punch Bar & Grill, snazzy bar with dangerous-looking sign, in a 1910 rowhouse. Upstairs used to be Eau, a bar with a waterfall in the window.

911: Metropolitan Design Center was Ferdossi Rugs, 1905-2004. Expanded from No. 909 next door.

Warren Building

903 (corner): Portico furniture is in an 1887 Stanford White building in an overly ornate Renaissance Revival style.

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

920 (corner): A 1916 building with 16 floors houses Mayrose, neo-diner; also Zaro's Bakery, local chain founded 1927-- formerly See interior design. Upstairs is the ICF Group, which stands for International Contract Furnishings--est. 1962.










906-908 (corner): Was B. Shackman & Co., a novelty company. Now houses Safavieh oriental rugs and the flagship of the Jennifer Convertibles sofabed chain. Previously at this corner was the Continental Hotel.

W <=== EAST 20TH STREET ===> E

West:

Lord & Taylor Building

901 (Corner): A whimsical cast-iron Bohemian Renaissance building (James H. Giles, architect) that was Lord & Taylor's main store from 1873 to 1914. Current occupant Energie/Miss Sixty was Intermix, before that Villeroy & Boch china store. In the early 1990s, it housed a topless club.

895-899: ''Equinox Building'' houses the Equinox fitness club; it used to be part of the Lord & Taylor building, with the same cast-iron facade. It was redesigned by John H. Duncan to give it a neo-classical facade when Lord & Taylor moved to 38th Street in 1914.

893: Jennifer Leather sofas; Men's Suits New York

Gorham Building

889 (Corner): A somewhat spooky red-brick structure built in 1884 by the Gorham Manufacturing Co. as a silver factory, store and residences--an early example of mixed-use development. Owned by the Goelet family, whose mansion was up the block. Now houses Fishs Eddy, which sells virtually indestructible china--the name is an upstate town where the owners used to buy a lot of antiques.

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

Goelet Building

900 (corner): This orangish structure is another (and better) Stanford White design, erected in 1886 on the site of the old Goelet mansion, the last such house on Broadway--a gloomy place haunted by peacocks. The top five floors of the present building are an ill-conceived addition. Now Bombay Co., Metropolitan Carpet Gallery; also houses craftbar, formerly the wine bar Morrells.







890-892 (corner): Lawrence A. Wein Center for Dance and Theater; houses American Ballet Theatre, a dance company founded 1939 whose artistic director from 1980 to 1990 was Mikhail Baryshnikov. (They're based here-- they don't perform here.) Also home to Ballet Tech, the New York City Public School of Dance. Loews 19th Street cineplex is on the ground floor. From 1899 until c. 1920, No. 890 was the address of McLoughlin Bros., pioneering children's book and game company.

W <=== EAST 19TH STREET ===> E

West:

Arnold Constable Building

881-887 (corner): ABC Carpets' rug department was the Arnold Constable department store (1869-1914), with a mansard roof worthy of the Addams Family; founded by Aaron Arnold and son-in-law James Constable, the old store offered "Everything From Cradle to Grave." Carnegies, Rockefellers and Morgans were frequent customers here.

By buying and renovating this building (designed by Griffith Thomas), ABC pioneered the revitalization of Ladies' Mile in the 1960s.




873 (corner): More of the Constable building, though a different color; houses Kundalini Yoga East, Illuminations candle chain, Broadway Futon and New Andy's Deli.

The Constable store was built on the site of actor Edwin Booth's home (1862-65) at No. 28 E. 18th Street; his brother, fellow actor and assassin John Wilkes Booth, often stayed with him here.

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

ABC Carpets & Home

888 (corner): Fascinating furniture store in a beautiful red-brick-and-chocolate building; frequently featured on Sex and the City. Was W & J Sloane (1881-1912), a carpet store that introduced oriental rugs to NYC; it carpeted the Waldorf-Astoria, the coronation of Czar Nicholas II and the homes of New York's elite. W(illiam) Sloane was the foreman of the jury that convicted Boss Tweed in 1873.

876: This quite lovely red-brick-and-cream building has fascinating detailing: workmen's tools--or Masonic symbols? Formerly ABC Carpets' annex, it's now home to Environment Furniture, which sells items made from recycled wood from Brazil's endangered Peroba tree.

McIntyre Building

874: Sleepy's (formerly Klein Sleep) is in this over-the-top 1892 tower by Robert H. Robertson; note name behind awning. When it was first built, until 1898, it was occupied by the children's publishers McLoughlin Bros. In the 1970s, the seventh floor was the illegal nightclub Cobra Club; for years, escaped snakes were found in the building.

W <=== EAST 18TH STREET ===> E

West:

867-869: Paragon Sporting Goods, since 1908; the building, dating to 1882, was home to the pioneering sheet-music store Charles Ditson Co. In the crime novel Drowned Hope, Dortmunder buys scuba gear at Paragon to rob a submerged town.

865: J&S Imports--"Africa, India, Haiti, Spain"--is in a strongly detailed five-story


859: Nicely restored three-story

857 (corner): Tisserie, Venezuelan bakery/cafe, replaced Union Square Deli. Painter Isabel Bishop's studio was on the fourth floor here (1934-44), helping to name the "14th Street School" of social realism.

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

872 (corner): Hawes Building houses Fresh, organic soap chain; was Dynasty Deli.

870: goodburger, local mini-chain, replaced Nicholas Reggae, Rastafarian paraphernalia (oils and such).

868: Was Java 'n' Jazz, cool coffeeshop.

862: Was Errico Brothers, retailers of Florentine carved furniture.

860 (corner): Building that houses Petco was Andy Warhol's Factory from 1974 until the artist's 1987 death--though by this time he was calling it "the Office," having declared the "Factory" concept "too corny." From 1980-89, it also housed Underground, a new wave dance club featured in the movie Liquid Sky. (Around 1987, it changed its name to Union Square.)

W <=== EAST 17TH STREET ===> E
S <=== UNION SQUARE WEST / UNION SQUARE EAST ===> S

Union Square

Union Square was not named for labor or for the North, but for the fact that Broadway meets and briefly converges with the Bowery (now 4th Avenue and Park), once Broadway's rival as NYC's main street. In the city plan of 1811, Broadway was supposed to be eliminated north of 14th Street, permanently uniting it with 4th Avenue. Fortunately, NYC was unable to raise money to reroute Broadway, saving Manhattan above Downtown from complete predictability.

The square has a rich political history: 250,000 gathered here to support the Union during the Civil War (1861), the largest crowd ever assembled in North America up to that point. Here were the first U.S. labor day parade (1882), Emma Goldman's arrest for telling unemployed to steal bread (1893), a funeral march for Triangle Shirtwaist Fire victims (1911), protests against Sacco & Vanzetti's execution (1927) and the Rosenbergs' (1953). After the destruction of the World Trade Center, Union Square became the site of an impromptu memorial and peace vigil.

The parking lot at the north end of the park hosts Union Square Greenmarket; Manhattan's biggest farmers' market. It used to be used for weekly recreations of medieval combat by the Society for Creative Anachronism.












James Fountain

This 1881 work by Karl Adolph Donndorf, surmounted by a statue of Charity, was intended to promote temperance. ''Here's something else you can drink--water!'' was a popular anti-alcohol message.






Gandhi statue

Placed here in 1986 to commemorate Union Square's history of (mostly) non-violent protest. Emma Goldman would have been a better choice.

In the summer months, there's an outdoor cafe in Union Square called Luna Park, named for the legendary amusement park at Coney Island.

Abraham Lincoln Statue

Sponsored by the Union League Club and sculpted by Henry Kirke Brown in 1869. It used to be where the Gandhi statue is now, and it used to be surrounded by a fence inscribed “with malice toward none; charity toward all" from his Second Inaugural Address. Lincoln's body lay in state in Union Square on April 24, 1865, before being taken to City Hall.

Independence Flagstaff

The flagpole in the center of the square, with a base by Anthony de Francisi and a quote from Jefferson about how we don't know how good we have it. Francisi's bas reliefs depict the subversion of democracy by empire; they're really quite radical. (Officially the flagpole is dedicated to Tammany Hall leader Charles F. Murphy, but public sentiment dissuaded the city from elevating the machine boss to the level of Lincoln and Washington.)

Statue of Washington

Equestrian statue by Henry Kirke Brown and John Quincy Ward (1856) was formerly on the traffic island next to 4th Avenue, where it supposedly marked the actual spot where Washington greeted the citizens of New York when he liberated the city from British rule after the Revolutionary War, on November 25, 1783. The present spot actually seems more likely to be where the roads met 220 years ago.







Statue of Lafayette

By Bartholdi, sculptor of the Statue of Liberty; he made this statue to remind New York of Franco-American friendship as part of his campaign to raise money for Liberty's pedestal. Should be facing toward Washington, to whom Lafayette is offering his sword; as it is, he's more or less facing a tree.

The steps at the south end of Union Square have become one of Manhattan's great public spaces--used by skateboarders, break dancers, political agitators and people just hanging out on the steps. The Critical Mass bicycle rallies gather here on the last Friday of every month, though they've largely been suppressed by extra-Constitutional NYPD action. There's a craft fair here every year in December.



W <=== EAST 14TH STREET ===> E
The northern boundary of the Village.

The corner of 14th Street and Broadway was nicknamed Deadman's Curve for its fatal cable car accidents.

West:

851 (corner): On the corner where Shoe Mania is was the Union Place Hotel, later the Morton House and then the Hotel Churchill.

Also on this site was the home of Cornelius van Schaanck Roosevelt, Theodore's grandfather (and Eleanor's great-grandfather); hosted celebrities like James Fennimore Cooper, Washington Irving, Louis Napoleon. Young Teddy watched Lincoln's funeral procession from a second-story window (April 25, 1865).

Roosevelt Building

839-841: Building with the Cosi cafe (formerly Xando Cosi) on the ground floor is named for Cornelius Roosevelt, who lived up the block. The rooftop was original site of Biograph Studios (1896-1908), which later made movie history on 14th Street. The building housed Cheap Jack's, a misnamed vintage clothing store.

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

1 Union Square South

842 (block): Features a Virgin Megastore and the reprehensible Circuit City. Like most of the new buildings on this stretch of 14th, designed by Davis Brody Bond architects (1999).

Stuff on wall, including steam and 24-hour clock (counting forward and backward), constitute an art piece called Metronome.





850: Site of Wallack's Theater, which Newland Archer attends in The Age of Innocence. Later at this site (as No. 842) were the offices of the Village Voice in the 1980s. The Union Square 14 multiplex is here now.

W <=== EAST 13TH STREET ===> E

West:

835 (corner): This was the home of the from 1866-87.

A strip of antique stores, including...

833: Universe Antiques

827-31: Howard Kaplan Antiques (bath fixtures a specialty); the AIA Guide calls this "a truly magnificent pair of Italianate business buildings." Used to house Belle Epoque, a restaurant evoking the Gilded Age.

825: Chinese Art and Antiques--porcelain, jade, ivory. A century ago this was the address of the St. George Hotel.




821 (corner): No Difference shoes is in the former home of Forbidden Planet, when it was the greatest comic book store in town. The 10-story building is an impressive prow-like red brick in the Rundbogenstil.

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y

East:

Forbidden Planet

840 (corner): Part of an international chain of comics stores. Gives out free boards-and-bags--for comic collecting. Used to have a great science-fiction section. Noted for its action figure selection. In a 12-story 1899 building.

836: Hyde Park Antiques, 18th Century English furniture is in a six-story mansard-roofed building.

832: Mavi Jeans (Turkish for "Blue") replaced Lawrence Michael Antiques, in an obsessively detailed building.

830: Detailing gets more hallucinatory as you go up. Used to house Philip Colleck of London. An automat opened here in 1902.

The Strand

828 (corner): Billed as the world's largest used bookstore with "18 miles of books," this store opened 1927 on 4th Avenue's Booksellers Row, and moved to this location in 1957.

W <=== EAST 12TH STREET ===> E

West:

815: Abe's Antiques

813: Simon Ross Antiques

801 (corner): James McCreery & Co dry goods (1868); moved to 23rd St. Now Global Fine Repro, David Murray Collections.

W <=== E 11TH ST

Street skipped a block here to save landowner Henry Brevoort's